New Turntable Advice
Good Morning
I's time for a change ! My current system is A VPI Prime with ADS speed control, on my second replacement cueing device, dual pivot added. With Ortofon Credenza Bronze MC cartridge, and Parasound JC3+ preamp.
What started search was just another let down with the VPI, cueing terrible, and the ADS couldn't bring the platter up to 45 RPM!!!
OK I'm heading in the direction of ~ $5000 table without arm or cartridge , Supa Trac Blackbird, and going to audition DS Audio W3. I was looking at a refurbished Nakamichi Dragon CT with album centering feature, but I think there maybe better technology from this vintage design.
So can you help with your advice on my next table, thanks Very Much
Bruno
speaking of a spare TT, with different technology, I gave my spare Technics SL-J33 to my son this is NEW, they are very compact, programmable, linear tracking, Quartz Locked DD many others for sale https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=sl-j33&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313 I put a P-Mount with advanced stylus on it. I loaned it to 3 others while their TT's were being fixed or waiting for something ordered, they all had to admit it sounded darn good, |
Well this is getting to be a very interesting conversation isn’t it? Idler driver turntables may be way off topic, but what the hell. I figure all of us are essentially on a parallel course with flat earthers anyway so why not diverge when the opportunity presents itself? Of course Lewm is right, this is not a good place for a neophyte to be looking. I was a neophyte myself when the TD124 (and TD224) were phased out and the TD125 era began. Thorens held demonstration/clinics where there was instrumentation used to measurably prove the superiority of the new TD125. My ears told me it was quieter, much quieter. Of course there were a few holdouts, mostly because the TD124 looked so cool, but over the course of time most serious audiophiles switched to the new model. As a dealer we hated to see a valued customer bringing in his TD124 to trade in a way because we knew that they were not an easy sell in those days on the used market. By the time I had the money to buy it was a TD125MKII, so I never did buy a TD124. I still like them, and I consider my VPI HW-III to be the successor. And it still sounds good. But it is a little soft spoken. A good idler is noiser, but it has more slam. Better than either, in my opinion, because of practicality really is a direct drive. Any are fun. |
Three items you may wish to consider if you are interested in keeping the VPI Prime but modifying it to correct and improve its performance. 1. There is no reason to replace the VPI cueing level - just refill-it: see the directions here - VPI Arm Lift too quick… | Steve Hoffman Music Forums. Once you slow down the drop of the cueing level, the unpivot arm becomes much more controllable. 2. You can upgrade the VPI motor to the latest SOTA design with far improved speed control - Total Eclipse Package – Sota Turntables. Alternatively, you can keep a look out for a VPI SDS on eBay or US Audio Mart, you want one with a serial number in the 3000's since this was the last version. 3. If you decide to upgrade the VPI, it's generally worth it to have the plater thrust plate changed to sapphire and the thrust bearing changed to ceramic. Contact Steve Leung - VAS Audio who has done this work in past - VAS Audio. This post describes what is done if you try it DIY Thrust plate and bearing replacement for VPI Turntable- Vinyl Engine.
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Anton, thank you these work arounds. In fact I mounted a Ruby on the setscrew to Improve the Second pivot design from VPI because it was scoring the drag plate ! |
