antiskate disc

Throwing in another vote for the Wallyskater. It is what I use. I have found that I must suspend the tonearm itself (and not the finger lift) in order to get an accurate reading. But my tonearm is weird.

Here’s what I do and have learned 

play any music track and listen carefully at the last 10 seconds 

Just before it becomes inaudible you will hear the last bits of sound from the left speaker 

Now adjust your anti skate higher until you hear the last bits of audible sound coming from the center equal from both speakers.  
Foolproof 

Good luck Willy-T

@willy-t “Here’s what l do…”

You have thought of something alternate here.

Normally there are three ways of doing something.

1. The recognised right way

2. The wrong way

3. A new better way   Possibly your way? (and more accurate with a mono record?)

Agreed 

Antiskate force is, was, and always will be controversial.  'Twas ever thus.  For the last 2 or 3 weeks as I have been immersed in learning how to setup my turntables using AnalogMajik, and of course setting antiskate has become a part of this process.  AnalogMagik, in their tutorials, says that for 12" tonearms antiskate probably isn't necessary.  On my VPI HW 40, which has a 10" tonearm, it proved unnecessary.  On my Technics SL1200GAE, which so far has been my focus with a Ortofon 2M Black LVB, I have found that varying the antiskate setting over a fairly wide range makes only small changes in distortion.  Therefore, I decided to just settle on using the factory setting, which as I understand it is approximately 10% of VTF.  Again, though, the setting could be +/- 0.5gr of that point with only small changes in measured IM distortion.  I am certain, too, that the results would be different for a different cartridge.  In conclusion, don't assume anything as YRMV.