How are you playing your precious MONO Vinyl?

lalitk OP, everyone

I can lower all 3 arms onto an LP, it plays perfect speed (as Halcro proved)

so I can compare 2 or even 3 cartridges within seconds by my two dials on my SUT

I make any needed volume adjustments when I change, my Cayin Amp volume knob is right there at 12 oclock normal (for more precision, for subtle differences, I make temp. A,B,C pencil marks on the amp’s aluminum face plate).

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A new friend and I just quickly compared a pair of Mono LPs and a pair of cartridges, just to let him hear the difference. 

1st with my MM Stereo AT160ml Cartridge and Mode dial in Mono, beryllium cantilever with MicroLinear Stylus (VAS verified good)

2nd the MC AT33ptg/II 50th Anniversary MONO (VAS rebuilt with boron/microridge) Mode Switch in Stereo and then moved to Mono.

The Stereo Cartridge playing a very flat, excellent condition mono LP of content recorded in 1955, with mode switch in Mono sounded good, if I only had a few Mono LP’s, like the old days, that would be ’good enough’. 

The Mono Cartridge (mode switch stereo or mono made no difference this time) was immediately more involving, definitely had increased clarity of individual instruments, that’s a trombone, that’s a trumpet, ..... if voices, I can say there would be an obvious improvement there too.

If you have more than a few Mono LP’s, if you have the money, definitely get a true mono cartridge. start at least with the Grado ME+ Mono Elliptical on Aluminum for only $185, it will be worth it, you will hear a preferred difference.

I have to say, I personally wouldn’t pay $1,000 or more, but the $600. I spent creating my Franken MC Mono with boron/microridge is noticeably better/preferred to the Grado Elliptical, i.e. the risk paid off!

@elliottbnewcombjr 

Thank you for your positive feedback with Mono playback. That’s my plan as well, buying a mono cart. I am contemplating between Miyajima Zero vs Hana SL Mono MK II or Ortofon. The choice of cart would be contingent upon choice of tonearm. So far, I have narrow down my options to SME 3012R, ViV Rigid Float snd Groovemaster IV. 

lalitk OP

I used the shorter SME 3009 on my Thorens TD124 for many years, loved the knife edge design. So obvious what everything does. Note: those arms have a concealed rubber tube that isolates the rear counterweight tube section, if buying used, make sure it has been renewed. 

I was just admiring the two longer 3012’s Steve has among the forest of TT’s you pass by. It was that combo, with Shure’s V15VxMR beryllium/microridge that I mentioned earlier as the best bass I ever had and will never forget. Tracked at 1.0g

It’s not tool free or quick to change the height, but it seems like you will leave things alone after setup, unlike me who changes headshell/cartridge combos frequently (including friend’s cartridges we listen to here).

I never saw or heard a Groovemaster, it sure has nice features, what do the reviews say about comparison to SME, others

a. very thin wire, thus no forces back onto the arm interfering with anti-skate which is happening on my re-wired 12.5" New Art Vinyl Blackbird Arm (didn’t happen with it’s original litz wire). That is why I changed to the 11-1/8" long JVC Victor UA-7082, with internal 5 pin din. (current Blackbird uses 5 pin din).

b. magnetic anti-skate, awesome (my Acos Lustre GST-801 has that)

c. optional 9, 10, 12" lengths

c. Rotary Lift, tool free height adjustment. Looks as easy as my Acos Lustre GST-801 which is so smooth I change height while playing. Note: both my friend’s Micro-Seiki 505 and my JVC Victor have similar tool free rotary height adjustment, but neither (both bought used) is smooth enough to adjust while playing. It doesn’t matter, I am not refining VTA, I am just getting the cartridge’s height differences dealt with to achieve horizontal headshell when playing. Ability to adjust while playing is amazing.

d. removable headshell, I would order a spare OEM headshell. 

or, when you take a chance on one of these vintage beryllium/microridge, you get a vintage AT headshell with azimuth adjustment. Tracks at 1.25 g.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/297274832378?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338381866&toolid=10001&customid=8ee582b8-2d13-11f0-b24a-356237643530

Notice, not a slot adjustment, has two sets of concealed threaded holes for two optional locations, you need screws the correct length for any different cartridge. I have a collection of mounting hardware from over 40 years, and Vail Hardware one town away with nearly anything I need. I have made custom length screws in the past: I put two pairs of nuts on, cut, then when you take the old nuts off, they straighten the cut end of the threads for you.

The Rigid Float, may be the best thing ever made, it’s just too ugly for me.

here's the AT160ml Cartridge without a headshell, from Samurai, I took a chance on two used with headshells, VAS checked them, they both were good! One body turned out to be a model 150 with 160ml beryllium/microridge stylus, seller gave me 1/3 refund I asked for when I informed him. The cartridge model is only marked on it's top, so seller did not know until I removed it from the headshell to move it to the other screw position.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266426386882?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338381866&toolid=10001&customid=e7d46010-2d22-11f0-c0fc-303934643930

I highly recommend Samurai and the cartridge.

@elliottbnewcombjr 

Thanks for taking the time to research and your recommendations. I am less likely to consider a used cart at this juncture of my analog journey. I don’t want to 2nd guess the condition or setup of my analog chain.