Power Cords/ Conditioner/Surge Protectors

If you're going to experiment with power cables, I wouldn't bother trying to upgrade any component other than your amplifier first.  I couldn't hear a difference when connecting audiophile power cables to any other component until I tested an updated amp cable, which draws the most power.  (If you have a power conditioner, then upgrade its cable, then the amplifier next.)  The Audience Forte F3 offers a clear upgrade over stock for a very reasonable price.  When I later borrowed a Shunyata Theta NR from The Cable Company, that provided a clear upgrade over the F3 (at a higher price point).  The benefits were (1) better dynamics and (2) lower noise.  I used a decibel meter to check whether there was lower noise, and it was in fact measurable -- the background "hiss" with the volume up higher than normal listening volume was measurably lower.  The noise reduction isn't dramatic, but all improvements add up in the end.

squared80 bringing the dumb....

Surge protectors and power conditioners require a solid earth ground. Old houses with two wire circuitry will provide nasty power for good equipment. A 20 amp home run to the box with a three wire full earth ground will  make all the difference. The surge protector will now work as intended. A power conditioner is an option to help raise the voltage to a consistent 120v, provide surge protection and reduce noise all in one. The 20 amp power line is still required.

I just went through this for my system and house with a Furman P2400-20, there was a dramatic improvement with a lower noise floor, blacker blacks and much punchier drums. Better current and voltage makes the difference.

I've always used Shunyata 20 amp power cords because I have current hungry tube gear and I trust their ability to deliver on demand. I can't say that about the light gauge power cables from the manufacturers.

I have both Taihang and Psm156. I have been using psm156 for awhile and recently added Taihang for Nas, wifi router, and network switch. These are not audiophile gear. Standard computer brands. My audiophile gear is plugged into Puritan psm156. What the Taihang brought to my digital sound reproduction is just amazing. Very dark background. Music just spreads and paints on a dark canvas. Fine details and nuances are more easily heard. So much relaxed without killing PRAT. If Taihang was built in NA it would have easily priced at $10K

One thing I rarely see on threads about power line conditioning (PLC) is whether the person actually needs conditioning in the first place. Given whole house surge protection is necessary, but whether further conditioning is needed is seldom addressed.  Some measurements should be taken before committing to purchase a PLC. A meter similar to the TriField EM100 can be used to determine how much line noise is present.  I’ve used one for years- not only for my own home, but for rental properties we own.  Some places get readings in the low 100s mV while others will max the meter out (measures up to 1999.9 mV).  

I’ve been a audio hobbyist for over 50 years and have had several PLCs in my homes (we moved twice during that time) for the last 25 years with varying levels of success. 

There are 2 areas to address. Noise coming in from your utility company (urban areas are pretty bad)= as are rural areas) and noise coming internally (appliances, fluorescent bulbs, smps, etc).   External can be addressed with a whole house protector. It’s the internal noise that is interesting.  

My current home’s receptacles were measuring 100-200mV. After reading several books on "dirty electricity" and it’s potentially deleterious effects on health (adopted kids have ADHD), I added some plug in filters from Stetzer Electric (cost $40ea). Using testnig various outlets with the EM100, I placed 8 filters about my 3000 sq-ft home.  Now my measurements are <20mV and on my system’s dedicated line the readings are ,10mV, even with the components powered up.   So, I do not use a PLC.