How does bi-wiring work?


To start, I do bi-wire my main speakers. However, I am somewhat confused about how bi-wiring works given that the speakers have internal crossovers and the signals received by them have the same full frequency range going to both sets of terminals.

I confess that I don't see any difference from single wiring in terms of the speaker's performance. What am I missing?

128x128Ag insider logo xs@2xjmeyers

@puptent no the filter in the, speaker is functional 

The debate about the better single cable + jumpers vs the lesser twin cable bi-wire set…plays out often at GREAT non dogmatic music loving Audioquest dealers nationwide…..I’ve spent quality time at 2 with VERY similar systems ( not identical ) and obviously different rooms and have heard both arguments win…. One dealer carries AQ, Kimber and Nordost, the other AQ and Cardas. One great thing about a superb dealer / customer relationship is the loan of both sets…

Another reason the sonic plus of biwire is frequently missed is the 8’ or worse… soggy sonic sponge wire i see ….. get monoblocks…..  my cables are 30”….

Also for the gauge freaks… check the size of wire from your output devices to the binding posts on your amp…. before y’all go nuts…

Finally get a fantastic set of binding posts w low mass spades or better rings where you can get a gas tight connection… Cardas makes a massive example…totally bad A and sonically EVIDENCED to even the deaf….

I have tried bi-wire several times over the years on several different speakers and sometimes there was a difference and sometimes there wasn’t. I have always wondered about that cheap piece of steel most speaker companies seem to use.  So a couple of months ago, I bought a pair of good quality jumpers and the difference on my KEF’s was immediate. Could this be the difference I heard when I tried bi-wire, the bypassing of that cheap piece of steal?

live and learn!