Torus vs AudioQuest Niagara


After home-demoing an AudioQuest Niagara 5000, I decided there were a few shortcomings that were nagging me and I went with a Torus RM20 instead, without any demo. I’m glad I did. I went that way because the thing I kept hearing about the Torus is that it doesn’t alter the sound, and rather, it just allows your system to be more revealing.

The first issue with the Niagara 5000 was the buzzing of the transformers. When the house is silent, you can clearly hear this buzzing 9ft away from my couch. With the music off of course. I wanted to consider the Niagara 7000 but I’ve heard that if you encounter buzzing with the 5000, the 7000 will be worse. As an aside, the manual even acknowledges the buzzing issue and notes that there may be no solution to it. To be clear, while the buzzing was audible from my listening position, it was quiet. But noticeable.

The second issue I had with the Niagara is that I felt that the high frequencies were closed in and constrained. Compared to my system plugged into the wall directly when the power is cleaner, very late at night.

In contrast the Torus RM20 was extremely natural. I didn’t detect it doing anything to alter the sonic presentation, other than unveil the sound to be more revealing, more solid, more immediate, and more 3D.

I think some may prefer the Niagara. There is more of a sense of each instrument and the vocals floating in a space of inky blackness. More so than with the Torus. But to me the Niagara sound was more impressively “HiFi” (not a good thing for me but maybe a good thing for some), wheras the Torus was more naturally musical with added solidity, clarity and soundstage depth to the sound. But the thing that kills the Niagara in my opinion is that the upper frequencies are more closed in than with the Torus. I have a specific track that starts with a high-hat where you can clearly hear the added texture with the Torus.

Of note: the AudioQuest provides isolation between your system components whereas the Torus does not. In my case, it doesn’t seem to matter, the Torus still clearly wins. I have my Gryphon Diablo 300 amp with the DAC module, an Ethernet isolation switch, a Streamer, and a USB Reclocker all powered by the Torus.

I’ve been told by Nordost that all conditioners change the tonal balance of your system and that it’s impossible to tell how that change will manifest because it’s different for each system. I’ve also been told by industry veterans to stay away from filtering of all sorts because you can’t help but alter your sound in unexpected ways. This advice has rang true with my experiments. The Torus in comparison (which Nordost also suggested I look at) is just a massive transformer, and not a filter or conditioner in the traditional sense.

If my understanding is correct, Plitron, the transformer mfr, started Torus and they also supply AudioQuest with transformers for the Niagara.

One other note regarding the Niagara - there is a hardness to the bass (with power correction engaged) that created a noticeable grip and a drive to the music. At first I liked this effect, but then I realized it was a tad over-emphasized.

I’ve also read that conditioners are totally system dependent, so my results may be drastically different for someone else.

I have a Gryphon Diablo 300, Nordost Valhalla 2 speaker wire, all AQ Hurricane power cords and two AQ Dragon high currents feeding my amp and also the Torus. Innuos Zenith MKIII Roon/Tidal streamer, Innuos PhoenixNET (Ethernet isolation switch) and PhoenixUSB (reclocker). AudioQuest Diamond USB and Ethernet cables.

If the Torus cost the same as a Niagara 5000 I’d still go with the Torus, no question. I’d even pay more for the Torus! But the fact is the RM20 is significantly cheaper than the Niagara 5000. It’s been around a long time and it works, well. And there is no buzzing from the unit whatsoever!

I feel like with AudioQuest’s marketing, Torus probably gets overlooked. But as an alternative to “filtering” and “conditioning”, at least in my system, Torus gives me exactly what I am after when it comes to powering my system, and nothing more is added that I don’t want.

 

 

 

 

nyev

I don’t doubt that conditioners can achieve the lowest noise floor.  But at least to my ears in my system, with the Niagara 5000, that comes at a cost of free-flowing natural sound, and and also constrained/closed in high frequencies (which may be welcome if you are trying to tame a bright or harsh system?).  

Torus just told me their customers report that the RM20 sounds best after 100-200 hours, so that’s even more good news.

Nordost not only slammed conditioners in general in my inquiry to them, but also regenerators.  Their only exception was Torus which again is neither a conditioner nor a regenerator, but rather a beefy isolation transformer which is simple and it works.

Regarding demos, the RM20 weighs almost 90 pounds so just a warning!

 

+1 @twoleftears @nyev

It is just nutty how audio simultaneously has (1) an obsession with "lowering the noise floor" (often inaudible already), and (2) a raft of products that buzz or hum.

I also am happy with the RM-20. It is dead silent, and I trust it to protect my gear from problems on the line. My back has recovered from the last time I moved it. Teflon sliders highly recommended.

 

To me the surge protection of the RM20 is a bonus but not something I’ve ever been concerned about, as I can’t recall any incident where I’ve damaged a device due to a surge.  For me the RM20 was 100% on improving sound quality in the face of higher AC line noise that is apparent in my system every day, aside from after midnight.  As I said above, the RM20 does everything I hoped it would, and most importantly, nothing more.

I do wonder if the improvement with the RM20 would be noticed in a less revealing system.  It wasn’t until I added the Valhalla 2 speaker wires that I first became aware of how much better my system was after midnight when AC line noise is quieter.  Before that I suppose my speaker wire was bottlenecking my system performance and so I was blissfully unaware of issues with dirty power.

But the RM20 totally addresses that issue and my system sounds great day and night.  
 

My one and only complaint (and the family’s too) is that the blue led in the power switch is absurdly bright.  I’ll be looking for something suitable to cover and dim it.

After hearing that it is a “transformer” the family is also debating whether its name is Megatron or Optimus Prime.  IMO the latter is more suited to audiophile gear!

@nyev -

Re noise: Yes. It filters nicely. I find the sound of my hi-fi is more consistent from time to time, which I suspect is due to just that.

Re: too bright LED. Yes again. I used this from Amazon: LIGHT DIMS Black Out Edition - Light Blocking LED Covers Routers, Electronics and Appliances and More. Blocks 100% of Light, in Retail Packaging.

https://tinyurl.com/yckwrjzt

One of the rectangular pieces covers most of the switch, and the remaining light is more than enough.

 

@mike_in_nc , thanks for the tip on the LED blocker!  What were they thinking selecting a light with that brightness…. Minor and solvable detail though.