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Wiring confusion with JL sub and components

I'm hoping some of you can offer more help than I've been getting from JL Audio. I've had one of their wonderful Fathom 113 subwoofer for a few years now and don't believe I've ever had it correctly connected to my designated 2-channel system.
I have an older Jolida 801 integrated tube amp which, because I am running a Jolida JD9 phono preamp, new SACD player (just scored on one of the new Marantz SA 11s'), along with a tuner, doesn't have any remaining RCA connections to be able to connect the JL sub to my Tape connection (have seen this as being one of the suggested methods of connecting). I had purchased this power source used around 6 yrs ago. The previous owner had an additional set of RCA connectors installed for running some sort of sub within his system. I've come to find out that these 2 connectors won't work with my JL Sub, so this is why I'm posting a question out to you folks.
Other than purchasing a new amp/preamp setup or running this sub off of my "normal" speaker "outs" is there a better way to connect the Fathom to my Jolida? I'm starting to see where I'm pushing myself beyond the usable parameters this Jolida offers, but can't afford to chew off 8grand until next year. Would like to see what correct methods of integrating the system together might be. The Jolida does have both 4 and 8 ohm speaker connectors on the rear. Not sure if these connectors would be worthwhile or not.
By the way, my main speakers are Klipsch La Scala IIIs which, in a larger room really need the extra "punch" a good sub can offer. Will send out my thanks in advance. I know this topic has been covered over and over again.
oldrider
johnnyb53
3,510 posts
 
If you want to keep the Jolida with the JL sub, I think you'll have to have the Jolida modded to add a stereo pair of line level outputs. If I were you I wouldn't get frustrated at JL--or even Jolida. As Kal said, each vendor makes its decision of features based on market demand and to make the unit more affordable. Putting speaker level inputs on subs adds cost that few people will use. The same goes for lower-priced integrated amps.

I used to use an Onkyo A-9555 integrated amp. It's a nice-sounding unit, but has no preamp outputs, and if you use the headphone jack, it automatically turns off the speaker outputs. Otherwise I could have used a stereo phone plug to RCA stereo adapter cable to use a sub.

But it wouldn't do that and I moved on. Now I use separates and my last two line stages have had two pairs of line level outputs. But there are plenty of integrated amps at every price level that have a pair of line level outputs. Audio Advisor has a Vincent Integrated for $399 (marked down from $900) that not only has preamp outputs, it has a USB port and a built-in DAC. So does the NAD 326BEE at $549 and many others.

Also, the current production Jolida JD302BRC or CRC integrated amp also has preamp outputs.
mcpherson
174 posts
 
Oldrider,
Thor is in Texas now close to Dallas. Ted is one of the good guys in audio. If you want I can ask him if they work on Jolida products or you can look him up.
johnnyb53
3,510 posts
 
Kal Rubinson (Kr4) is right. There is a simple answer; transformers abound in the auto sound world for converting speaker output signal back to preamp level signals. There used to be some available for home audio. Carver made one in the '80s to enable receiver owners to use his amps. These days they're mostly in car audio. But if you match power capacities you should be fine. It's a passive device, and any powered subwoofer that has speaker inputs has a similar transformer inside to pass the signal to the internal sub amp. You'd be supplying this link between your Jolida and your JL. It's safe and it's not rocket science. And it's really inexpensive.
almarg's avatar
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almarg
9,670 posts
 
Johnny, as I indicated in my initial post in this thread I'd be skeptical that a cheap transformer oriented towards car audio, and perhaps even Carver's Z1 Coupler, would do justice to the OP's system, and to a JL sub in particular. As I'm sure you realize, all transformers are not created equal, and that is probably especially true in the deep bass region.

Also, are you sure that "any powered subwoofer that has speaker inputs has a similar transformer inside to pass the signal to the internal sub amp"? I have no particular knowledge of how that is generally done, but I would expect that in many or most cases it is done with resistors configured into a voltage divider circuit, not with transformers, resistors being a much less expensive approach compared to a quality transformer.

Regards,
-- Al
johnnyb53
3,510 posts
 
I shouldn't have said "transformer." I don't know what the conversion circuit is. The point is, the powered subwoofers with speaker-level inputs would have circuits very similar to the passive units available in car audio. There's no reason to turn your nose up at components common to car audio; they deal with complex wiring, high power, and high current. Many carry very high-res signals between components by Focal, Alpine, Blaupunkt, Boston Acoustics, upscale Pioneer, Kenwood, and of course JL Audio.

Besides, it'll only cost about $15-30 to find out if one of these automotive units will do the trick, and just about everything these days has a 30-day return period.
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