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Least Expensive Power Conditioner/Surge Protector That Won't Worsen Sound

I have an old Shunyata Hydra 6 that I'm sending off to Shunyata to repair. In the meantime, I'm curious - What's the least expensive power conditioner/surge protector that won't worsen the sound? 

 

I've already discovered that plugging my integrated directly into the wall sounds the best. But I have source components. I have liked the Shunyata, but just in case they're not able to get it back to like new shape, what are your thoughts? (I tried numerous PLCs at the time I bought it almost 20 years ago and I thought it, by far, sounded better than any other one I auditioned in my system, and that included the Hydra 8).

 

I see many users who have reported worsening sound when using the Audioquest PQ2 and PQ3.

 

Something like a Panamax PM 5300 or 5400?  Or the Furman Elite 15?

 

And what is the danger of under-voltage?

analogj
adasdad's avatar
adasdad
121 posts
 

@buddyboy1, +1 on the AudioQuest PowerQuest 2. I used one for over a year before I got an AQ Niagara 1200 power conditioner, and I still have it. 

buddyboy1
106 posts
 

 

@adasdad.....Do you notice a difference in SQ w/ the Niagara..........

vinylshadow
400 posts
 

PI Audio UberBuss sans surge.

Richard Gray 1200 Custom with surge. 

lowrider57's avatar
lowrider57
5,393 posts
 

What's the least expensive power conditioner/surge protector that won't worsen the sound? 

It sounds like you're hoping to get the Shunyata back. I agree with your thinking, find something for the mean time, then go back to the Shunyata or replace it.

lous's avatar
lous
196 posts
 

I haven't used audiophile conditioners. You can get medical grade used isolation transformers from ebay, or you can find a ups that takes in AC, converts it to DC, then inverts it back to AC. I think that this is increasingly common. They used to send the AC right to the output, and would tap off of it to charge the battery. If power dropped, a relay would drop and switch the output to the battery powered inverter. Electronics running at slower frequencies, older computers and such, would run fine during the transition, but today's gear will often shut down, so the ups' commonly run off the battery constantly, but check to be sure. They can be had for a few hundred dollars. It needs to be able to supply sufficient current to run for amp at full power though.

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