So done with audiophile fuses

Have to agree with goose on this.  First tried HiFi Tuning Gold on preamp, monoblocks, speakers mid, highs and cd player. Largest impact on Carver monoblocks where general complaint online is no highs and now heard highs. Speakers like wiping windows but nice improvement, preamp also clearer. No impact on Sony ES cd player, but kept fuse.  Then when SR Red deal came, changed monoblocks, cleaner midrange. And tried on home theater system, cleaner on amp. Very large impact detail and dynamics with old Onkyo Dolby ProLogic surround processor. But edgy, took awhile to settle down. Well, saw SR Black deal and tried with B&W home theater speakers and Sony Cd player. B&W blacks still there, and nice detail improvement. BUT, twice black fuse failed due to inrush on Cd player upon turn on.  (SR helpful, dealer not) Learned from blogs with Reds (where I had no problem) and now with Blacks that SR users tend to use higher values as fuse may blow at replacement value. Sony tech people warned against doing this as next level 25% higher than recommended.  So stopped buying any more SR fuses. HiFi tuning fuse in there still for cd player.

Yes, odd that audiophile fuse should work, but often comments ignore material science whether in cables or similarly in a fuse. (Major speaker changes over the years are materials, usually stiffness.) Impurities, grain size, configuration, dielectric all impact cables. Ohno casting with one crystal (amazing), less oxygen has improved cables. Shielding as well since EM everywhere.  Audio signal is not one frequency but very complicated continuously varying frequencies, so testing distortion at one frequency means little. Agree best to do double blind testing, but my surround processor was really obvious change. Why is SR fuse failing, probably because melt characteristics with different material, especially new graphene does not match stock fuse. If users want to risk that, up to them. Do believe likely will get improved sound, but for me, was too risky. Do think while expensive for small wire, audiophile fuses are potentially one of the best tweaks, just variable depending on location. But have not changed anymore after the SR Black failures.

PS Do not want to say SR blacks cannot handle any surges. Have screwed up and had horrible surges go to B&W and blacks still holding. But for some reason did not like the Sony cd player on main system. 

Like I should have said said, "To each his own TURD"

All turds are not created equal. Crappy outlook!

No bare footin' in the amp area!

Wash hands thoroughly after TURD swap.. :-)

Regards

It reminds me of why the French have a slang expression for shoes: Ecrase-merde. Quite literally: Turd Crushers.... go figure... or better: don‘t.

Ahem. In what 3rd world country do you all live where shorting a fuse in an audio amp starts your hovel on fire? Move into the modern world, where our buildings have code, and our breaker boxes have, uhhh, breakers installed.
As for your insanely expensive amp, yeah, that's going to release its magic smoke, and be worthless, but you'll still have a shanty in which to keep it.

And, ummm, if your amp blows a fuse more than once, it's trying to tell you it doesn't feel so good inside. The engineers who designed it did lots of math to determine how much current the thing should draw, and how much is too much, then they put a fuse in there to burn up before your tubes, transistors, and worst of all, your transformers burn. For cripes sake, DO NOT short it out, or put anything else but what the engineers calculated! TAKE IT TO THE AMP DOCTOR!!! Putting a higher amperage fuse is saying, "Something's wrong with this machine, it's using more power than it can safely handle. Maybe if I feed it even MORE power, I'll never need to have it serviced," and you might end up being correct. And the engineers who built it will be sad, and the salesperson you buy it's replacement from will be stoked. And that's really what this game is about, right? Happy sales people.