Critical subwoofer tip


I assume that everyone already knows the importance of phase matching a sub to the main speakers but it’s a little more complicated than simple 90 degrees or 180. The B&W sub that I have has four choices. In every case there has been a definite correct position that can be non standard. My current setup shined at 270 degrees vs the std positions. It’s completely obvious and the other choices would not have been satisfying. 
From my lengthy experience I would want a subwoofer with several phase choices. I personally don’t see how one could seamlessly integrate the mains and the sub without this flexibility. No one asked but i thought this info might be useful to anyone purchasing a subwoofer. YMMV
4425
I think it is safe to say that I am one of the confused ones. If we ignore changes in amplitude over time (impulses) and just stick with a sustained tone at a given frequency, how are two wave fronts 180 degrees out of phase not the same as two with the polarities reversed?
If I had a sub with speaker level inputs and no phase control, I would expect swapping the speaker leads to produce the same effect as flipping the phase 180 degrees.
BTW, I am enjoying these posts and appreciate the OP for starting it and everyone who has contributed. It has caused me to think more about things I "knew", or should have known, and how poorly I have considered some of those things in practice.
One of my subs remote equalization presets is set for reverse polarity.
Any recording with a prominent Kick drum will reveal proper polarity.
By simply switching the assigned preset button the Kick will sound noticeably more or less forward.
This only changes the polarity within the subwoofer system.

Making the manual switch at my preamplifier does a complete switch.

Since polarity can change from track to track on some more highly produced recordings made at different locations it would be most useful if every modern preamp was equipped with a remote control polarity switch since its more discernible at the listening position.  


Any recording with a prominent Kick drum will reveal proper polarity.
The kick is a poor arbiter. One might have a preference, but unless one knows the material first hand, it's just a preference.

Since polarity can change from track to track on some more highly produced recordings made at different locations it would be most useful if every modern preamp was equipped with a remote control polarity switch since its more discernible at the listening position
Polarity can vary from instrument to instrument in one track!

Back in the day, the east coast & Europe was mostly pin 2 +ve, while the left coast was pin 3. Some studios varied in both locations. Microphones could be either depending on their history.

Pop overdubs were often done all over town. Sometimes on both coasts or overseas. Not all engineers checked polarity. Hence the drums could be +phase, lead vocals -, percussion +, backgrounds ?, etc.

Some more twisted engineer types carried their own mics, pre's, EQ, amps, speakers & cables. 0:) That way you could get the room without worrying about polarity.
mtmug-
I think it is safe to say that I am one of the confused ones. If we ignore changes in amplitude over time (impulses) and just stick with a sustained tone at a given frequency, how are two wave fronts 180 degrees out of phase not the same as two with the polarities reversed?
They aren't. The are the same. Your confusion stems from reading guys who sort of understand some of it, just enough to keep everyone else thoroughly confused.

If I had a sub with speaker level inputs and no phase control, I would expect swapping the speaker leads to produce the same effect as flipping the phase 180 degrees.

Correct. Same thing.  

Think of a 40Hz wave propagating out of a sub. The wavelength at 40Hz is about 28 feet. https://www.translatorscafe.com/unit-converter/en-US/calculator/sound-frequency-wavelength/  This means your room has to be at least 28 feet in every dimension, or else the wave will encounter a wall and reflect back and cancel itself. Before even one full wave.  

Of course no one's room is this big, and 40Hz isn't even the bottom, we want 20Hz, which use the web page, is 56 feet! Nobody but nobody has a room 56 feet on a side with a ceiling 56 feet high! Nobody! So ALL rooms are small, from the perspective of a sub.  

Take a room most would consider large, 17x30x9. Pretty good size room, right? Those dimensions in terms of wavelength work out to 66, 37 & 125 Hz, respectively.  

You see what happens? No matter where you put a sub the waves are all much larger than the room, and so they wind up reflecting and canceling or reinforcing themselves. You can physically move the sub around. All this will do is move the locations of the modes. You can reverse polarity. All this will do is move the locations of the modes. You can adjust phase. All this will do is move the locations of the modes. Changing location, phase, and polarity are all different sides of the same coin. All any of them are doing is moving around the modes. Same exact problem. Never goes away.

Notice there is zero chance any of this has anything to do with the main speakers. The mains are either too high in frequency to matter, or if they are at the same bass frequency then phase still doesn't matter, because they are just two more sources of the same problem. They still cancel and reinforce because the same wavelength physics applies to them as well.

When people notice profound effects and improved bass by changing phase, it is not because they have matched anything. It is because they have found a setting that is less lumpy at their listening location - for certain frequencies! Same goes for EQ. You can get it pretty good at one spot, but only by making it worse everywhere else.

This is why multiple subs works so well. More subs in more locations results in more modes, more areas of cancellation or reinforcement. Same problem. No getting around the physics. With more subs however then the output of each one can be less. Because each one is less then each mode is less of a lump. Yet add them all together, the result is the volume you want without the lumpiness you do not want.  

This distributed bass array concept by the way is one of the great audio developments of the last 50 years. This one simple move - four subs instead of one - enables anyone to have truly awesome bass in any room and for as little as $3k. Amazing. Yet hardly anyone is doing it, mostly as far as I can tell because the concept is hard to understand.

Well, do a search. Look around. The physics is rock solid. The results uniform and unimpeachable. Everyone who does it is blown away how good it works.