Mouser has these(80V, 22KuF, 2.5" X 4.125", screw terminal) in stock, if if not previously noticed, or surpassed in specs: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/CGS223U080W4C?qs=qWixfiLJRaxuOL7Ci4ISqA%3D...
Replacing Amp Caps
I am currently trying to replace the caps in my Bedini 100/100 amp and I am having quite the time trying to find a replacement that will work. I am hoping that someone with more knowledge can give me direction on which way I can go. The amp recently stopped outputting a signal and after all the usual internal checks, with an amp as old as this, cap replacement should be on the list of things to do.
The values and associated numbers on the OEM caps are as follows:
is there a rule of thumb of which direction this value can go? Since it is for an amp, is there a brand/style I should be looking at? I can find little to no information on National Cap, do I assume they are no longer in business and move to another brand?
I have been searching for five days and fully understand I am out of my element and looking for all the help I can getand open to all suggestions.
SteveA
The values and associated numbers on the OEM caps are as follows:
National Cap
85DX
+22000MFD 65VDC
85C USA 8137
Screw Terminals
D=2.5"
H=4.0"
Apparently 65VDC caps are something in the distance pass, of the possible replacement values is either 63V or 70Vis there a rule of thumb of which direction this value can go? Since it is for an amp, is there a brand/style I should be looking at? I can find little to no information on National Cap, do I assume they are no longer in business and move to another brand?
I have been searching for five days and fully understand I am out of my element and looking for all the help I can getand open to all suggestions.
SteveA
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- 35 posts total
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https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LNT1K223MSE?qs=%2Fha2pyFadujWNTRYoFZetWFsfOgqQfBavn9UCQaI2cVASAlZVSsWkg%3D%3D
At just 2000 hours for the Cornell-Dubilier getting the above with the higher max temp should extend its life considerably. Any advantage to the other that I am not aware of? BTW- Mouser has just refunded a previous purchase of a different cap that I was going to use. But due to not reading the data sheet correctly I ended up with a smaller cap with a mounting stud. Emailed about a RMA and got a reply from Customer Service that told me not to bother and return and was crediting me the purchase price. Talk about customer service, will definitely be making the purchase there for the replacements. |
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Here are the MOST important factors: 0- Do NOT skimp on price, buy the BEST if you want to use them forever (relative). 1- The higher the voltage the rating, the safer the bet. This also increases the ripple current rating which makes it more resilient. This is VERY important for higher power amps. It also protects for AC mains spikes which may occur and endanger exceeding the voltage rating, even for a very short time, if you buy them right at the limit voltage. 2 - Temperature, temperature & temperature. The higher the rating (105 degrees C) the better the capacitor will be constructed and the longer it will last. Temperature is the greatest enemy of an electrolytic capacitor and higher ratings are much better. Check these out, even tho they are obsolete, they can still be bought here & there. They last 20,000 hrs at 105 degrees C... almost unbeatable. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/58?s=N4IgjCBcoOwEwFYqgMZ... |
- 35 posts total