Dedicated 20 amp circuit - Electrician laughed!


I brought my electrician out to my house today to show him where I would like to install a dedicated 20a circuit for my system.  He laughed and said that's the stupidest thing he's heard and laughs when people talk about it.  It said, if you're going to do it, you have to have it separately grounded (shoving a new 8 foot rod into the ground) but even then, he sees no way there can be an audible improvement.

Now, he's not just an electrician though. He rebuilds tube amps on the side and tears apart amps and such all the time so he's quite well versed in audio electronics and how they operate.

He basically said anyone who thinks they hear a difference is fooling themselves.  

Personally, I'm still not sure, I'm no engineer, my room's not perfect, and I can't spend hours on end critical listening...  But, he does kinda pull me farther to the "snake oil" side and the "suggestive hearing" side (aka, you hear an improvement because you want to hear it).

I'm not taking a side here but I thought it was interesting how definitive he was that this not only WILL not make a difference but ALMOST CANNOT make a difference. 
dtximages
As a person who worked his way through college by working out of IBEW 175, and whose Dad was it's one time president, I must state that anyone who runs a separate ground rod from his dedicated circuit is asking for a charge of negligent homicide to be added to his resume.  This is dangerous, totally against all electrical codes, and totally ignorant of how A/C electricity works.  Ask you local building inspector for a permit for this, and he will visit your property regularly, forever.
I use my clothes washer circuit.  It allows the amps to charge up without the ebbs of other power draining sources.  Of course, now that the electronics have taken over my laundry room, I can watch the garage lights on the circuit with the washer dim with each reversal of the agitator.
I installed my own dedicated 20 amp line.  I had a really long run, my listening room is on the opposite end of the house from the breaker.  I found a good deal on cryo treated Romex(think it was only $75 or so.)  The wire, a new breaker and a Synergistic Research outlet for $100.  So for less than $200 and an hour's worth of work, well worth it.  People saying it makes no difference have no idea what they are talking about.  Even if all it does is take all of the noise generating items out of the loop, it is worth it.  On the non dedicated line right next to it, you can watch the voltage swing from 112-117 very regularly.  The dedicated line sits at 119-120 usually and is much more stable.  
Hi From Denmark
I have worked in the industrial segment as a engenier for 13 years and as a electrician before that for 12 years. 
My English is poor though, so..... 

My advice is to keep it at simple as possible. I do not know your rules in the US but here in Denmark we can have a seperated Ground pole for the HiFi if it is placed at least 40 feet from the other Ground pole and that i can not physically reach between the two potentials. We Are also bound by law to have a house surge protector.

That beeing said My main consern is noice and emc and how to build your system up to get rid of this.

1: Sepperate Ground pole with Ground wire to the main board for HiFi. 

2: Sepperate Circuit for hifi with propper connections in the main board

3: Sepperate shielded cable with gound wire, All wires is 10 gauge or better from your HiFi Circuit to your receptacle. Connect the Ground wire from the cable and shield to the GROUND wire from the pole in the main board. BUT MAKE SHURE THAT THE SHIELD WIRE IS SORTER THAN THE GROUND WIRE FROM THE CABLE. 

4: your receptacle must be placed in a metal or aluminium box. The shield from the cable is connected to the emc connector wich is connected to the metal box. The metal box MUST NOT be connected to the Ground wire from the cable, it is Isolated from the box and is only connected to the Ground in the receptacle. If you have multipel receptacles you must connect one Ground, hot wire and neutral wire for each, a star configuration.

5: receptacles should be with good connections.

6: You can connect a Ground bar on the box metal chassis so that you can connect extra Ground wires from your equipment, but only if it is approved by the manufacturer. This is to dismiss noice and magnetic fields from chassis. 

Your Ground and shield from the cable are only connected in the main board. Your box with the receptacles now works as a shield against WiFi, static electricity, and other noice. NOICE "RUNS" THE SHORTEST PATH NOT IN THE WIRE WITH THE BIGGEST GAUGE.

This is a good start and I Hope you can understand☺️