I'm looking to going back to an integrated amp---tired of separates. Staying at home has given me time to do some research. So far I've narrowed it down to the Yamaha A-S2100 and the Luxman 505uxii. Maybe the McIntosh MA5300? But the Yamaha looks like a winner at its price point. If anyone has any input, I'd greatly appreciate it. I can't leave the house here in VA until 6/10.
audiophiles who are just getting the itch to upgrade
Hello, I am reaching out to the community of those audiophiles who are looking at this unprecedented time in our history to upgrade their components. Why? because we are now spending so much more time with our gear and looking for ways to improve it, because we can :-) My questions is this; if there was one component you could upgrade in my system, what would it be and why?
- Linn Sonedek LP 12 with Hercules board, Ittok II tonearm and Koetsu Black Cartridge
- Fritz Carbon 7 SE Speakers - http://www.fritzspeakers.com/DreamWeaverFritzCarbon7Mk2SpecPage.asp
- Audio Mirror Tubadour III NOS DAC with Miflex KPUC caps(courtesy of Don Sachs) and the Z foil resistors
- Cary Audio SL80- Signature 1 with VH audio Reference V-Cap CuTF output caps plus Cary volume IR upgrade and mains cap upgrades. Running Gold Lions KT88 matched tubes, Shuguang Treasure CV181Z - 6SN7 Pre-Driver/Phase Inverter tubes, Sovtek NOS 6922 Input Buffer Preamp tubes and WINGED "C" (SED) 5U4-G GREY PLATE tube
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Manley Labs Chinook phono pre-amp
- Cullen crossover series speaker cables and power cords
- ...
- 44 posts total
bluorion, Integrateds are the way to go. But you can do a whole lot better in that price range. https://www.ravenaudio.com/product/blackhawk-mk3/ |
Plenty of simple things to do: 1) with the modifications already performed was an AC filter choke added to any component? 2) the CV181 tubes are nice tubes but I would try something different. I swapped mine out for tung-sol 6SN7 black glass round plates (expensive now) and then I just converted the preamp to use 6SL7 since the tung-sol 6SL7 tubes are cheaper - requires changing the bias settings. 6SL7s have a higher gain so a little more punch and dynamics are added. Same for the electro tubes try something different there also. 3) Since you are using copper V-Caps try the Audio Note non-magnetic resistors copper or silver or even the basic Audio Note resistors (see parts connexion website). Just updating a few in critical places can add more clarity, bigger soundstage, and more dynamics with cleaner/clarity. Last - I would rather see you update the phono stage then the TT. Since I build components, my TT is a el cheapo JC Penny! It was actually made by CEC back in the day. People are floored by the sound but that is because the phono is reference quality. Happy Listening. |
I added a Keel and Chris Harban plinth and Radikal motor to my Cirkus bearing table. Previous to this new Karousel, the consensus on the Linn forums were that the Radikal made the most difference followed by the Keel. Since I added all three simultaneously I can't confirm this myself. However, my table plays extremely well on a variety of components that I have tried it on. Very Quiet too!! Linn upgrades are not cheep, but they do produce some very sweet music. I don't know how the Harban plinth compares to a Green St. Audio, but I do know keeping resonances controlled is paramount. The Tangerine Stiletto Plinth is another CNC plinth/top plate which you may want to consider. Just make sure that the table is set up correctly by someone with a good track record. Mine was assembled in my home by a real pro. I ended up moving a short distance 2 yrs. later and it still runs great. I am thrilled with my upgrades. Best of luck, and stay home and healthy. Bruce |
- 44 posts total