Power Amplifier Longevity


Hi All, 
I am venturing into the separate component world and was wondering how long a good power amp typically lasts.  I may have access to some older Lexicon CX and LX series amplifiers.  However, since they are discontinued and nearly 20 years old from what I understand, should I be concerned with how much longer they will last?  If they do need servicing, is this something that is available at a reasonable cost?  Or should I invest in newer equipment?

Budget is a concern for me which is why I am interested in these older (higher quality) amps at a reduced price versus spending the same amount on something newer, but lower quality.

At this time, I have a Marantz AV8802A and Vienna Acoustics speakers. 
Main L/R - Mozart Grand
Center - Maestro Grand
4 Surrounds - Waltz Grand

I thank you in advance for any advice provided on this subject.
Brian


brianb339
For your Vienna speakers and almost whatever else you might want to replace them with for moderate size room, there is Gryphon Diablo 120 integrated for sale here. Get it and forget about the age of an amp. Gryphons are built for 40 years of reliable operation under normal conditions. Sure, some break from time to time. Everything breaks from time to time. You don't need separates. Gryphon is higher level than Pass.
@cakyol  , @heaudio123 is correct about the can size of capacitors.


It is also prudent to follow military derating curves when selecting a filter capacitor for a power supply. This puts the voltage at which the power supply is operating to be about 70-80% of the voltage rating of the capacitor. This insures the longest life of the part. Its also worth noting that the capacitor will run longer if it is charged up fairly frequently; putting the device in storage for extended periods isn't good for electrolytic capacitors. 
Quoted from United Chemicon:

(a) Operating Voltage

When in service at voltages equal to or below the rated value, the life of electrolytic capacitors is affected less by applied voltage than by operating temperature. Figures 7, 8 and 9 show life test results with various reduced voltages applied. The curves show that the life of the capacitor has not been significantly increased by a reduction in voltage. This is due to the use of proper forming voltages to minimize gas generation and leakage current. From this we can say that when capacitors are used at or below their rated voltage, the acceleration factor AV is equal to 1.


My point in choosing a capacitor to have a max voltage higher than normal is so that it handles the voltage spikes that are likely to happen.  If the AC mains was perfect, it would not be a problem.  But if any AC machinery or any kind of inductive load is running near the outlet to which your device is connected, if the devices do not have excellent filters, they will cause spikes on the AC line when powered off.  So, a cap with a higher voltage rating will favor better than one which does not.


I am not trying to increase the life of the capacitor by choosing a higher rating.  I am making it more resilient to possible spikes over the long term.  That is the essence of my argument.



Post removed 
I can only speak for myself. I built a Hafler 500 in 1975-76--can't remember that far back!--and use it today.

It was in the shop recently as I was able to score an Audio Research preamp, finally!, and wanted to be sure the Hafler was OK.  

Tech said that the bias was WAY OFF for some reason, but once he adjusted it, everything measured within spec, and it sounds just fine (for a non-tube amp), old "caps" and all.

I do know that in my Sunn guitar amp they replaced the caps and possibly a few other parts, but these amps are used for playing instruments and taken on the road, so not surprised that some parts eventually fail or no longer perform in spec.

I am looking for an Audio Research tube amp to go with my preamp, and when I find one, it being tube and running much warmer than most solid state amps, I will have it checked out (can't afford a new one) for performance before putting it into the system.  Also need an EC2 or EC3 so I can keep the Hafler on the bottom end of my Maggies, so will have to have it checked as well.  

Old stuff is old; have it checked out before incorporating into your system and you should be fine.

Will something fail eventually?  Of course.  Back in the day, we got in a number of DOA items, so new is no guarantee either.

Cheers!