2. digital
  3. 1051384332

Wash, Cut, Polish & Demagnetize

As I sat and read through the most recent threads on the "Agon" forum, I noticed a thread regarding "Glossary of Audio Myths". I noticed several comments regarding "greening" and demagnetizing CDs.

Without delving too deeply into the effects of laser light diffraction, deflection, dispersion and reflecting light from adjacent tracks creating "jitter", and to avoid reduntantly examining the fact that the aluminum "wafer" in a CD is not always just aluminum, but in many cases aluminum "alloy", I would like to attempt to dispel a few of these "myths".

Many CD manufacturing facilities use a coating of mold release agents on the manufacturing machinery and on the plastic substrate material in the actual CD to facilitate ease of handling throughout the manufacturing process. Somewhat similar to spraying a cooking pan with "PAM" to reduce sticking. The residual amounts remaining on the CD upon completion of manufacturing should be removed as it will cause minor deflection and loss of focus of the laser beam. Specialty chemicals are available specifically for this purpose. I wash the CDs thoroughly using Dawn dishwashing liquid and very warm water. I cannot confirm that this process is as effective as using the specialty chemicals, but it leaves the CD surface extremely clean and seemingly free from any "oily" feel.

I then cut the edge of the CD using an Audiodesk CD cutter. This process reduces the amount of laser scatter from exiting through the outer edge of the CD and flooding the inside of the CD transport with reflected laser light. By cutting a bevel on the edge of the CD, you actually reduce the edge surface area by which the diffracted laser light can disperse. Some may feel that this a bit excessive, but we must keep in mind that the results of these treatments are cumulative.

The next process involves applying CD "Green" to the beveled edge. The properties of the color value of the Green used in the majority of these coatings tend to absorb any stray laser light. I still, to this day, have not been able to figure out why Green is the color of choice although, I have been told that it is simply the values of each of these colors (Red laser light and Green) that work together in unison to "neutralize" the light. The initial washing of the CD also helps to enhance the adhesion of the green coatings.

Upon allowing the CD green to dry, I then apply CD diamond using 100% cotton balls, and polish using again, cotton balls. CD diamond is an optical enhancer similar to Optrix,
Vivid, etc. and also contains a anti-static component. Most of these "optical enhancers" work by simply filling in microscopic pores in the CD surface permitting a more direct transmission of the laser beam through the plastic substrate material to the actual CD surface.

The last step involves demagnetizing the CD using a Furutech RD-2 CD demagnetizer. CDs, contrary to what most people believe can and will become magnetized. The results are a less black background, a general "haze" and loss of detail. If Cds were made using pure aluminum with NO trace elements, this step might not be required.

The results of all this? Pretty damn amazing. Again, recognizing that the results of all of these steps are cumulative, when all is said and done, the improvement is quite significant. Although these steps may sound somewhat time consuming, each CD actually only takes about three minutes to complete.

I hope I have provided some insight as to "dispelling" some of these myths. I can, and will, stand by this process as time and time again these enhancements have made CDs a lot more listenable. And, I have dropped the jaws of many non-believers after they have heard the actual results.

Any comments regarding this process are welcome. Happy listening.


128x128buscis2
albertporter's avatar
Ag insider logo xs@2x
albertporter
4,949 posts
 
I don't see anything wrong with your lengthy process if it makes the music better.

I listen primarily to LP, washing my records with a VPI 17F and then preserving them with Last. There is no doubt AT ALL that this improves my softwares performance. I see little difference in our efforts, except you choose to labor on CD format and I on LP.

For my silver discs, I've tried the green edge treatment and various cleaners with audible improvement. Although I am out of the CD Stoplight, I still clean every CD and DVD with Walkers "Vivid" and Record Research's "Shine-Ola."

There is NO question that these improve performance. So I am not surprised that going further, such as your edge beveling technique and de magging might improve still further. If you could explain the benefits, I for one would like to read the results of your efforts.

Please hurry though, before the naysayers chime in, filling this thread with their opinion as to how it cannot work.
geoffkait's avatar
geoffkait
23,365 posts
 
The small blue rings from Compact Dynamics, makers of Optrix, works well to reduce slipping at the CD/spindle interface; Vivid has replaced Auric Illuminator in my procedure; I also prefer to use Mapleshade Mikrosmooth as first step & like their ionizer gun in addition to Radio Shellac bulk tape eraser. 4 one-inch long equally spaced purple stripes with Staedler Violet pen, around edge, is also quite interesting.
garfish
1,840 posts
 
Buscis2; well stated case, and I agree w/ the above posts too. My experience has been like yours, although I primarily use the Auric Illuminator kit. It certainly does make an audible and worthwhile difference to me, ie music of treated CDs becomes smoother with greater clarity, and a bit tighter bass, and I/ve tried treated vs untreated discs too. I haven't tried edge beveling yet though. Optrix treatment seems primarily to add smoothness and refinement to CDs. Cheers. Craig
herman
2,216 posts
 
I may be able to shed a little "light " on this.

"I still, to this day, have not been able to figure out why Green is the color of choice although, I have been told that it is simply the values of each of these colors (Red laser light and Green) that work together in unison to "neutralize" the light."

The correct term is absorb, not neutralize. A green marker is green because it reflects green and absorbs other colors such as red. Since red and green are opposites on the color wheel, green is especially good at absorbing the red. Black should also work because it absorbs all colors. If you used a red marker it would reflect red, exactly the opposite of what you want.
sutts
700 posts
 
Buscis- I tried the CD Lathe from a local dealer (he treated one disc as a test), and I believe I could detect an improvement, HOWEVER, here's the problem:

that disc now has BIG problems being tracked properly (especially track #1) on my transport, which has NO problems tracking ay other discs. Hmmmm..... I was THIS close to buying the lathe, but now I'm not so sure...
More to discover