How to shop for speakers?


OK, I've got the upgrade bug. My problem is how to evaluate speaker auditions given the limited local choices and the inevitable differences in amplification, room, etc. I have a local dealer who will let me do home audition, but he does not carry 4 of the 5 brands I am interested in after attending RMAF. He is even getting the mfgr to send a pair for my audition. My problem is how do I judge the various speakers given the variability in listening environments and the time lapses between listening. Buying used for home auditioning and selling what I do not like does not seem practical to me given the price range I am looking at - not much available used in this range and too much potential for significant loss with each transaction. Besides what if I sell one I later decide was the best.

My short list after attending RMAF:

B&W 800d or 802d - not so impressed after dealer demo
Dynaudio Confidence C4 - waiting for dealer to get one for demo
Wilson Sasha or Sophia3 - was blown away by the soundstage of the Sophias at RMAF
I would like to audition Revel Salons or Studios or Sonus Faber Elipsa but local dealers are installers and do not have demo capability

My favorite at RMAF was JM Labs Maestro Utopia but they are out of my price range new.

Amplification is McIntosh MC501 ( this makes me a non-audiophile since I read in another thread that audiophiles do not use Mac equipment - I'm fine with that since I really like the music more than the equipment). But, I would like to hook up a MC275 during the hot summer months to listen at low to moderate levels.o

Not sure if this is a gripe or a request for advice, but I will appreciate any guidance that is offered other than the usual " you listen and decide" I already appreciate that.
altbrewer
Sensitivity won't matter, if you have inductive speakers and enough power to get to the listening levels that you require. I looked up the Mac MC275, it is 75 watts, you should be fine with a minimum of 86db sensitivity. That will give you 101db output @ 32 watts. Not rock concert levels, but certainly live Jazz venue volume levels.
HiFiTime & HiFiHvn, most tube amps (that have output transformers) are designed to provide approximately the same maximum amount of power when a 4 ohm speaker is connected to the 4 ohm tap, as when an 8 ohm speaker is connected to the 8 ohm tap. There are several things to watch out for, though:

1)If an 8 ohm speaker is connected to the 4 ohm tap, which is sometimes done to achieve tighter bass or other effects on sound quality, then there would be a 3db volume drop (compared to the 8 ohm speaker being connected to the 8 ohm tap).

2)If the speaker sensitivity is rated with respect to 2.83 volts, rather than with respect to 1 watt (2.83 volts corresponds to 1 watt into 8 ohms), and if the speaker's nominal impedance is 4 ohms, then a 90db/2.83V/1m sensitivity would be only 87db/1W/1m.

3)Fluctuations in the speaker's impedance vs. frequency curve will assume different significance for a 4 ohm speaker connected to the 4 ohm tap than for an 8 ohm speaker connected to the 8 ohm tap, if the fluctuations are not in the same proportion. For example, if the impedance of a nominally 4 ohm speaker varies from 2 ohms to 8 ohms over the frequency range, a greater impact on frequency response would result (with a tube amp) than in the case of an 8 ohm speaker whose actual impedance had the same tolerance (-2/+4 ohms, meaning impedance varying between 6 ohms and 12 ohms).

Along the lines of Ralph's comment the matchup of the speaker's variations of impedance as a function of frequency, and the amplifier's output impedance, should be consistent with the designer's intention.

Also, I second Tim's comments about the importance of the phase angle of the impedance, and its variations with frequency. A low impedance magnitude coupled with a highly capacitive phase angle is a worst case load.

Regards,
-- Al
Thanks guys.I guess I'll still keep using the 3 db for reference.Sometimes the 4ohm tap does sound better with some 8 ohm nominal rated speakers. That was just a guess.I had a couple of different Conrad Johnson amps,and from what I remember,they wired them all for 4 ohms out of their factory.They told me that they sound the best this way.I see an amp for sale now that has a 6 ohm,and 16 ohm output.Might be a compromise between the two.
Thanks Almarg and Timlub.Some odd things do happen sometimes.In the 80s I believe,a dealer friend tried two pairs of Rogers 15 ohm speakers on a tube amp,and it resulted in a volume drop that was enough to stop him from ordering a second pair for his home.This was on the 8 ohm tape.Being a tech,he was somewhat disappointed.He didn't bother going any further. It seems like we always are learning.I think there are some Magneplanar speakers that are a decent 4 ohm load.It would be nice to have Stereophile,or others do tests on a lot more speakers.That sure would help.To many speakers are rated 8 ohms that have characteristics that should put them in the 4 ohm category in my opinion.It makes it hard for people that starting home theater systems that can only handle 8 ohm loads.
If an 8 ohm speaker is connected to the 4 ohm tap, which is sometimes done to achieve tighter bass or other effects on sound quality, then there would be a 3db volume drop (compared to the 8 ohm speaker being connected to the 8 ohm tap).
Slight correction to this statement in my earlier post. The statement should say:
If an 8 ohm speaker is connected to the 4 ohm tap, which is sometimes done to achieve tighter bass or other effects on sound quality, then there would be a volume drop of up to 3db, the exact value depending on the amplifier's output impedance (compared to the 8 ohm speaker being connected to the 8 ohm tap).
Best regards,
-- Al