Replacing generic RECEPTACLES

Just found a Carbon Fiber / Aluminum base , double face plate for 4 from Oyaide (WPC-Z2} from VH AUDIO. $374.99  And the single (WPC-Z) $239.99......Good thing i only need 1 and 1....

I own apartments, and sometimes have Section 8 tenants! When I have an inspection, the inspector uses a classic polarity tester to twist and wrench each outlet. If he tester flickers at all (continuity break) I have to replace it! (If they weren’t shot before they test them they definitely are afterwards.) Now I just replace them all.
And yes, you can replace a 15 amp outlet with 20 amp one. It makes thing safer! I often do it to “high stress” areas such as kitchen counters!

tomfoolery...... Thats what i would have done if i already had a 15A dedicated line. Since i do not , I will just put a 20A dedicated line in for my CDP and the 20A Furutech. 

tomfoolery

And yes, you can replace a 15 amp outlet with 20 amp one. It makes thing safer!

You can replace a 15A outlet with a 20A outlet provided the wire connecting  the outlet to the panel is of the gauge specified under the NEC and your local code for a 20A circuit. Otherwise, you have a code violation and a definite safety hazard. And there is nothing inherently "safer" about a 20A line compared to a 15A line. If they are each properly installed, they are of equal safety.

Possibilities are endless:
How about replacing your 12-3 nomex from the panel to the receptacle with some exotic wire? Maybe the circuit breaker itself on the dedicated line should be replaced with a high end breaker.
Also, isolating (not touching the other wires) the power line between the panel/breaker and the dedicated receptacle would eliminate the possible interference from the other circuit lines (microwave, refrigerator, etc,).
To totally eliminate the vibration issues originating from the framing of the dwelling, one can encase the dedicated line in a foam filled solid conduit (not sure if this complies with national electrical codes).
;-)