PADIS. Wow, that’s so interesting that I had to go pull one of my own Furutech fuses. Surely enough, it does have the Padis "PFA" logo printed on the fuse in addition to the "Furutech" label. Interesting. Research indicates that Padis is a European distributor for Furutech. The Padis marketed fuses are cheaper. However, it’s unknown whether they are the same as the "Furutech" branded fuses. https://www.amazon.de/Padis-FUSE-Feinsicherung-Stromst%C3%A4rke-Ansprechverhalten/dp/B005LF1ZL2 A translation of the above PADIS listed on Amazon indicates a pure silver conductor (which is the same as the Furutech T13A fuse targeted for European usage). It is not the same as the standard Furutech TF series fuses. A couple of things that I could not find on a generic PADIS fuse: - special low induction copper alloy conductor (probably Phosphorous Bronze or Beryllium Copper). - ceramic body with special damping filler It’s unkown to me if the generic PADIS fuses have these two characteristics or if they are just non-filled fuses with silver conductors (which will cause it to sound much different than the Furutech branded fuses). The generic PADIS fuses are definitely cheaper than the "Furutech" branded fuses. |
I'm hoping that what PADIS makes for themselves is better than what they make for others. I'm still kicking myself for taking my time about the SR20 fuses. Partsconnexion had all the ones I needed but the prices didn't reflect the discount. Going to eBay, they had the prices but not all the ones I needed. By the time I got back to Partsconnexion, all the ones I needed were gone save for one in 1.6A. Getting sidetracked, I found out that PADIS can be had from Germany, England and Canada, with Canada being the cheapest, but PADIS doesn't make a small fuse in 1.6A. Maybe a SR20 in 1.6A and everything else (1A and 8A) with PADIS. My only other hope is that VH Audio will come down on their prices soon. They still have the older pricing. What makes it even worse is I found a blog over at PS Audio where all the commenters preferred the SR20 over the HiFi Tuning fuses. Oh well, early bird and all. By the way, here's the list of fuses where that guy from Singapore tested them out on his equipment. It's not the last word on fuses but his honest take on them. All the best, Nonoise |
If you can’t get a 1.6A, just bump up to a 2A. I use 2A in Class A based preamps because it give it a lot more authority when the music "hits". That’s the most I would bump up, though. It’s interesting that he describes SR20 as smooth and warm. I definitely wouldn’t call it "warm", but I can agree that it’s smooth. In fact it’s so smooth and clean that I don’t feel you’re getting enough texture/grittiness/bite. lol. This may be exactly what you’re looking for, though. I don't know that VH Audio will come down on their price (they still have the old Hi-Fi Tuning Gold at full retail!). I think that Parts Connexion decided to discontinue sale of the SR20 and are just blowing them out of inventory. |
Thanks, I forgot about simply bumping up a notch. As for his take on the sound, I feel your take is more to my liking as I like tone and texture more than most other attributes. And for all those who jumped on the SR20 fuse sale, if you're replacing a HiFi Tuning fuse, the folk over at the PS Audio forum site all said to face the fuse the opposite of the way the HiFi Tuning fuse is oriented. In other words, If you have it reading left-to-right and like the sound, put the SR20 in reading left-to-right. They were unanimous on that account, for what it's worth. All the best, Nonoise |
