Placement tips for Synergistic Research HTFs


I just bought 15 HTFs and will also be making about a dozen of Ozzie's homemade models.  While I will re-fresh myself with SR's placement tips, and I get that I will have to do some experimenting to tailor the HFT effect to MY listening room; are there any "Advanced HFT Placement Tips" some of you would like to share with us?  Something that might be overlooked by many of us?  Or maybe, just a good rule-of-thumb tip for someone just starting to use these?
The tips could be tips for bring out more highs, solidifying the bass response, placement hi vs low, in front of vs behind speakers, on side walls, at reflection points, behind the listener, on the ceiling above the equipment or above the listener, on the equipment.
Any ah-ha that you would like to share?  I would also be very interested in hearing from people using Magnapans.

toolbox149
So Geoff I will have to say the homeowners association for your condo probably won't permit you to build a LIGO in your play room right.? Even if you could build such a home brew device..

When you turn your hi fi on and play music you generate compression waves and they become  shear waves..after hitting any solid material. So when this does happen all your isolation is gone..Your isolation system even a  LIGO at home.. and not by any well guarded good design or plan becomes a container for all the self generated shear in your sound system and all that motors thru your home. I am certain the Real One and Only LIGO  site does not allow a 140 db arena sound system to be played in their facility. But even if it was 85 to 90db like at home you would generate shear wave interference. All audio components anything with a motor or transformer or a chassis...your speakers all generate and transmit and carry shear energy which cannot be isolated from your room or your sound system. Some audio components require shear waves to function.Yours meaning Geoff's ...isolation system can not determine the polarity of shear that does have a meaningful function of sound reproduction versus the polarity of shear that becomes interfering energy. Your isolation system works to preserve all polarities of shear the good and the bad and that is the result in your audio outcome.

I called Herzan and they said their products only deal with signals that come from below. After I asked more questions I was passed on to a nice lady.  I asked her if their devices could discern shear motions and their polarity she said no, try damping..That sucks away energy you know like isolation materials..

The application of hard materials with specific geometry to room surfaces and some contents provides the music listener with the greatest physical and emotional experience..it is all about shear and its transference. That is what is happening with these small tuning devices, those that contact hard surfaces in the room.

Tom
Theaudiotweak
I called Herzan and they said their products only deal with signals that come from below. After I asked more questions I was passed on to a nice lady. I asked her if their devices could discern shear motions and their polarity she said no, try damping..That sucks away energy you know like isolation materials..

Exactly! "Try damping." That’s what I just got through saying. Furthermore, if the speaker isolation devices are two way devices, preventing seismic vibrations from going up and preventing speaker cabinet vibrations from going down then where’s the beef?

The application of hard materials with specific geometry to room surfaces and some contents provides the music listener with the greatest physical and emotional experience..it is all about shear and its transference. That is what is happening with these small tuning devices, those that contact hard surfaces.

Sorry, Charlie, not really, not with the transducers and resonators we’ve been discussing. You’re way off. Obviously the diagrams for placement of resonators is where the acoustic pressure peak are maximum, not the wall resonances. As Judge Judy says, if it doesn’t make sense it’s not true. Now, that’s not to say there aren’t devices like the Tekna Sonic dampers of yore and Shun Mook Mpingo discs, even my Brilliant Pebbles that can be attached to walls and Windows to dissipate energy that way. And some of transducers and resonators can work on surface vibrations such as on walls and speakers. It's worth mentioning acoustic waves are equivalennt to mechanical waves, anyway, so the point is a little moot, no? 

But the fact remains you must isolate AND damp, not one or the other. But if you have. A choice and wish to get the most bang for your buck choose isolation.

"The only good vibration is a dead vibration." - Shannon Dickson, author of Bad Vibes, 1996, Stereophile magazine

I had tried damping previous the result was much the same except for the reduction in amplitude at all frequencies. A minor change in geometric shape was the fix. A change of the reflective angle between the two surfaces. Tom 

theaudiotweak
1,483 posts
05-04-2017 8:40pm
I had tried damping previous the result was much the same except for the reduction in amplitude at all frequencies. A minor change in geometric shape was the fix. A change of the reflective angle between the two surfaces. Tom

Nobody promised you a rose garden. If it (damping) was that easy everyone could do it. For one thing damping - like isolation - is an art. Take tube dampers, for example. While most of them look they would be a good idea, and many are very clever, they actually hurt the sound. The elastomer rings, the braided copper Swiss ones, the ebony ones. Almost everyone single one of them! Only one type of tube damper actually improves the sound.

Check out Marigo VTS Dots sometime, tiny little constrained layer dampers for all manner of things like capacitors, speaker diaphragms, speaker frames, component chassis, electron tubes, even larger dots for walls and windows. The most common Marigo dot size is 1/8" diameter. Hel-loo!

Damping, like isolation - It’s a science AND an art. Rome wasn’t built in a day. That’s why it’s important to damp the top plate of an isolation device but damp it the right way. There are plenty of wrong ways to damp it or to over damp it. The same thing goes for the way the component is interfaced to the iso stand and how the iso stand is interfaced to the floor or rack. The materials and shapes are critical. Everything is critical. My advice is don’t be an isolation hater. Be an isolation lover.

geoff kait
machina dynamica
the difficult we do quickly, the impossible takes longer
Todd, jkbtn, Ozzy & mid40sguy,
Thanks for your interest and input about transducer and resonator selection and placement.  I will be running my final head to head tests this weekend and I want to make sure my tests and opinions are meaningful for the people who are adding to this conversation.
If the four of you could just shoot me a quick post discribing the resonators you ended up using, that would be great.  I could use the type & size of the cones you use, the type & size of the bases you use, and how you attached them to each other.  If you built more than one type, feel free to let me know about any others you are interested in.

Thanks
Toolbox