Well Tempered Simplex arm and wiring

gvoth. I will get back to you in a few days. I am out of town away from my system for a while.

Just thought of something. The gallows post that supports the arm is, I believe, 6 to 7 inches in length. It too goes into a hole in the base near the cup. It is adjustable in height with a set screw so as to adjust height of arm to adjust VTA and rake angle. I  can give you exact length when I get home.

The Simplex plinth I bought has the set screws. A friend is making the pot for me according to your measurements (he’s printing it 3D out of grey plastic). I bought a regulated AC to DC power supply and the motor turned nicely. I am making the pillar out of both black Denril and aluminum - I’m making a couple stainless steel  support arms. I ordered a metal picture frame I’ll be using as an extended base so that the WTRP bearing, spindle and platter, will fit. This will give the table a beefier, taller appearance and add mass along with some pods of sorbothane for damping separating the plinth and base. Then on to making the arm. I have a few parts for that. The pillar Delrin I got is 5.25" long. The support arm is supposed to be 3.8" from he top of the arm to the top of the plinth. How long is your support arm? I’ve made them 3-7/8" long for my 2 clones.

My base for the Simplex plinth turned out great - it's the same 15" x 15" x 1.25" size of the plinth - a matte black metal picture frame filled with 3 layers of ply. I moved the squash balls to the bottom of the base and separated the base and plinth with 2.5"d  1/4" Sorbothane discs. The gap is minimal. To gain height to clear screw heads protruding below the plinth, I added a bit more height to the leftover centers from drilling the holes in the base and hot glued these cylinders into the plinth holes along with 1.5" d washers on the bottom of each foot. The metal makes such good contact with the Sorbothane that it feels like the plinth and base are screwed together. Now to drill the hole for the WTRP bearing, add the WTRP spindle and platter, and install the pillar and support arm parts. My 3D printed silicon pot should arrive shortly. The bearing reaches clear to the bottom of the base's bottom. I hope to make the base hole larger than the bearing to further isolate the plinth from the base.

mr_m, it dawned on me that I could 3D print a similar connector to what the Amadeus ll uses to attach the ball and arm (why not make it more like the upscale model rather than the Simplex...).

Can you tell me a little about the piece that connects the arm and golf ball on the Amadeus ll? How deep is the entire unit and is it aluminum? Dimensions of the various surfaces would help. How deep is the lower circular piece and it's diameter? Is it curved to fit the ball underneath or is the ball itself cut in any way? I see a screw goes thru the top down into the ball before the arm slides in... Can you tell me the diameter of your tonearm? I've used a 6mm (slightly smaller than 1/4"d) carbon fiber shaft for an arm previously which worked well.