Why some preamps does not play music? Cold?


I mean technically/electronically wise, why some preamps while been very revealing and very good in reproduction of frequencies and extensions, are at the same time not engaging musically and emotionally and even boring? Are there a solutions to fix that (except for changing preamp)?
dvavc
I, like Ralph, was going to cite distortion as the main culprit. I learned something new about how the brain processes music - limbic center vs. cerebral cortex. Thanks!
Biasing the transistor or tube correctly is key to getting the correct sonics from the preamp. When switched on, the unit it cold & the bias is quite a bit off + it's still drifting. As the electronics warms up the bias establishes itself at the design point & also stabilizes i.e. stops drifting. This takes anywhere from 30-60 mins; sometimes/often more. For example, Wadia claims that their CDP sounds best after 72 hrs of continuous on. I can attest to this. After 72 hrs the entire tank-like unit is warm to the touch (vs. stone cold when 1st switched on).
Tube amps too - most manuf say to not bother checking bias voltages for atleast 30 mins after turning unit on. Same deal with s.s. units. 
Besides stabilization of bias voltages & currents the 2nd aspect would be what the actual bias voltage & current is as set by the designer. Is the tube being run "low & hard" i.e. low bias voltage, high current OR the opposite - "high & soft" i.e. higher bias voltage, lower current. The bias point will tell in which region the device is operating in terms of output distortion, output impedance, gain, output noise. And, this will affect the sonics. Of course, there is no way to know this by simply popping off the top lid & peeking inside. A tete-a-tete conversation with the designer will reveal this info (& many manuf are cagey to reveal this proprietary info for a good reason). There are plenty of 6922 & 12AX7 tubes in the market but some preamps using them sound really good & others so blah...
A 3rd possible reason is the quality of surrounding components - the resistors, signal capacitors, power supply capacitors, diode bridge rectifier, bypass caps, power supply snubber caps, grounding scheme, seperation of power supplies of the noisy output stage vs. the quieter input stage & the output impedance as higher output impedance has an interaction with the interconnect cable parasitic R, L, C + an interaction with the proceeding stage's input impedance that will affect sonics. For example, at one point a friend & I were messing around with a s.s. power amp's bridge rectifier circuit, power supply & bypass caps. Using a certain type of rectifier diodes + power supply caps + power supply bypass caps made the bass sound muddy compared to removing the bypass caps & using an even faster recovery Hexfred recitifier diode. 
All of these items affect sonics.... 
Atmasphere - thanks Ralph for one of the most succinct and cogent pieces of writing on acoustic engineering design I've read, someone should cut it out and save it for all future similar queries 😺

I appreciate the answers, didn’t even bargain for that deep level of technicality and psychiatry.))) I was hoping somebody just to say "go ahead re-solder this capacitor and everything will be OK". - that level of technicality) However, I’m afraid I didn’t express myself clearly enough and thereby mislead the public here). I have five preamps, but said issue persist only in one out of five. This one (tube pre), INHO is, the best (out of five) sounding preamp in terms of extensions, transparency, clarity etc. "Foot tapping" is also non-issue, i.e. plenty of that. However, as it most apparent on complex, avangarde jazz pieces (Kith Jarett, Jan Garbarek, Chick Corea etc.) it looses musical connection (?) It does it on any kind of music, but on regular music it is less obvious, because it still have enough "melody (?)" left to connect sounds into music(?). When switched to any other, out of 5 preamps, (cold, SS or whatever) which BTW, have less of extensions, clarity etc.,, the music comes back. So, the correct word is probably musicality not emotional engagement? I don’t really believe (for whatever it worth))) that any distortion has anything to do with this issue, cause like i said other preamps most likely have more distortions been not as clear and transparent as the one at issue.Just wanted to clarify the issue, to bring everybody onto the same page.


phd: "Some preamps are more accurate then musical, maybe that’s the case here." Sounds more like it.

dvavc

A Quote from the master Nelson Pass

Nelson Pass,

We’ve got lots of gain in our electronics. More gain than some of us need or want. At least 10 db more.

Think of it this way: If you are running your volume control down around 9 o’clock, you are actually throwing away signal level so that a subsequent gain stage can make it back up.

Routinely DIYers opt to make themselves a “passive preamp” - just an input selector and a volume control.

What could be better? Hardly any noise or distortion added by these simple passive parts. No feedback, no worrying about what type of capacitors – just musical perfection.

And yet there are guys out there who don’t care for the result. “It sucks the life out of the music”, is a commonly heard refrain (really - I’m being serious here!). Maybe they are reacting psychologically to the need to turn the volume control up compared to an active preamp.



All active preamps dvavc, have a colourations/distortion of their own, and all sound different to each other. None sound like the "mythical" "straight piece of wire".

If you want to hear what your source sounds like without these active preamp colouration/distortions you should try to use your source into your poweramp via a passive preamp, the closest to a "straight piece of wire" sound.

But for that to work it’s best the source output impedance should be low (1kohm/1000ohms or less) which most are. The passive pre should be a 10kohm passive, and the poweramp should be 33kohm or higher input impedance which most are. And interconnects from the passive pre to the poweramp should be 2mt or less and low capacitance (100pf per ft or less) which most good ones are.

This then will give you the most uncoloured, dynamic way of hearing your source, you may not like it, but that is the sound of what your source is without any active preamp colourations/distortions changing the sources sound.

If all parameters above meet the requirements try this. This is a $49 10kohm passive pre you can try, and even send back. And they have "B" stock as well.

http://schiit.com/products/sys

Cheers George