Modular Room-w/in-a Room HT? Think's a good idea?

Interesting, but how does the cost compare to on site methods of adequately isolating a hi-fi movie or music room?

Ptss, I literally just cut and pasted some similar concept product web pages, and did no research at all on what might possibly be the cost to purchase one, all the ergonomics n options, and so forth. Lol. Guess I didn't care enough to follow through there!? Pricing? Yeah, have no idea.
Also im pressuming these products offered no acoustical treatment adapted products for internals, so I'm just piecing the ideas in my head.
What I do know is that it's EXPENSIVE to convert an existing even small space to a reasonable improvement in sound isolation, as I've done such rooms myself before. Last one I did cost me nearly $10000, and I did a lot of labor and sweat myself! And, that was room construction for sound isolation, - Inc associated reworking HVAC, Dropping ceiling, rerouting electrical, double drywall n texture , furred out studs, insulation, green glue n hardware, floating floor, new door n frame, etc? All that and I still screwed it up! (Lots of mistakes in design) But I'm guessing this could be done for less or comparable, and with better results, with the modular concept?? Yup, not really sure.
Im pretty sure the concept would need to be designed and constructed to really know.

Avgoround, just for my own information in case I redo my basement in the near future (more for better sound than isolation, although isolation would be nice too), what things did you do wrong? Thinking there's a good chance I'd make at least some of those mistakes so would be helpful to know. Also, did you use resilient channels on the walls/ceiling? Thanks for thoughts.

Soix, since sound isolation (keep in and out) was the main goal in the room, I failed in number of areas, yes. First was (for just bare min acceptable results imo) NOT USING RESILIENT CHANNEL N ACCOUSTICAL ISSOLATION CLIPS!, yes. While I considered this, I tried to save max inner room dimensions in small room (was,11.75' x 13.5' x 9' originally), n opted to only FURRED OUT the walks w staggered studs -even in closet -to isolate from outter walls. I would say this had only minimal effect ultimately in the upstairs spare bedroom flanked by other bedrooms. Then I simply 1\2" dryall + green glue + 1\2" drywall inside (tried keep it thinner because it makes sound HARD n unyielding inside, plus not enough base absorption., so counter productive in noise isolation). Then I used sound cover over windows to help there (again minimal effect)
Next failed effort was FLOATING FLOOR CONSTRUCTION! I didn't engineer it correctly, partially in attempt to keep floor thickness to minimum yet "floating". I used 1\4" foam closed cell pading underlay, with Hardybacker board heavy underpayment + green glue + lamin flooring over that. This also only minimally helped, but mostly hardly at all!!
What should been done is perhaps small modestly spaced acoustic isolation rubber pads with sound deadened sandwiched 3\4" plywood construction, I believe. Really the minimal isolation point contact between subfloor is key plus mass floating above it as new floor. . then prob carpet n padding.
Next was hard dropped ceiling which WAS NOT USING RESILIENT CHANNEL, NOR SPRUNG WITH ACOUSTIC ISSOLATION SORINGS. Either way that also needed to be isolated, and it ended up not being done!! So also dropped ball there, partially from compromised soffit design recommendations from contracted construction guy and wife's desire for inceiling lighting choices. I caved in n failed basically, sound issol wise.
Of all things, probably the solid door and new jam helped plus sealed weatherstripping rubber around, and seal at bottom had best results compared to otpriginal hollow crap door.
All in all, ideally some floating floor with separate isolated room - within a - room concept would have been way better (including improved bass ISSOLATION with added wall spacing depth, but left small small space inside ultimately. Second best - and only real viable improvement option for space, budget, and practical application was to probably still fur out wall to isolate walls between rooms, THEN PUT SOUND CLIPS N REZILLIENT CHANNEL + sandwiched green glue construct drywall attached to that all around the room! (Including over newly built soffit +acoustically sealed recessed lighting or other lighting option externally)
Also I'm sure some sort of isolated doubled thick pane window configuration or thick cover or something to help sound there.
Anyway, yeah, made mistakes and you really can't when it comes to sound issolation !! Sound doesn't know you are trying to keep it in or out just because you TRIED!!! LOL.
Next time I'll put a better effort forward, for sure