Where has been your most effective placement for an aftermarket fuse?


Not looking for a debate with anybody on whether aftermarket fuses work or not, this thread is for those fortunate members with the hearing to know that they do indeed work.
I am very interested in your thoughts and opinions as to where they work the best, the biggest bang for your buck if you like.
For myself I am going to say it is in my Metrum Onyx DAC.
And not just my present DAC, all of my last 3 DAC,s showed a very nice easily audible improvement with an aftermarket fuse.
Next I would say is in my Gold Note phono stage and lastly in my BAT integrated amp.

So what or where would you say has been the most noticeable piece of equipment that has benefited from a fuse change in your system?
128x128uberwaltz
@uberwaltz I appreciate your attempt at an answer.I've seen it asked but ignored in the past.So thank you:-)
As I mentioned in the last ill-fated fuse thread, Maggie owners have for years been doing away with those fuse banks for the mid and tweeter by bypassing them or by filling the fuse slots with a solid conductor.  The boutique fuses are a good choice if you don't want to tear things apart. I use SR Blues far beyond the factory ratings of 5A and 2.5A. Right now, I have 20A and 10A.  This is expensive and is like no fuse protection at all, but they sound better.  I don't worry about pushing the ratings. Uber, did you replace your Maggie fuses at all?  
SR black in a Coincident CSL preamp.
SR black in a ModWright Sony HAPZ1ES,  One fuse made a difference the other didn't
Tried SR black in Coincident Frankenstein amps and they made zero difference. 
I'm thinking about trying Oranges in my AtmaSphere M-60's.
Jafree.

I am ashamed to admit that all the time I owned my Maggie's I never even thought about the fuses😕.
In fact I never touched them again from where I first plonked them down as they just sounded so right.

Brownsfan.
Which fuse worked in which component?
Not looking for a debate with anybody on whether aftermarket fuses work or not, this thread is for those fortunate members with the hearing to know that they do indeed work.

Nice try. Unfortunately #1 on the list of Hateful 18 character traits is the inability to comprehend the written word.    

I've used both Blue and Orange. Both made the biggest improvement in my Melody integrated.   https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367 

Second best, yet still well worth the money, is in my Herron VTPH2A phono stage. Coming in a distant third, no discernible difference, are the two in my Teres Verus motor controller.  

You may well ask if they make no difference why are they in there? Well they were included free when buying HFT or ECT, something like that. So even these manage to be worth what they cost. ;)

jtcf-
I'm not a naysayer and am curious about aftermarket fuses.What stops me from trying them not knowing what is actually in them and will they protect the equipment same as the 50 cent fuses.Paranoia:-)

I've had a look at several of these fuses (and a lot of other things) under x-ray and can tell you they are the same fuse as anywhere else. Even the ones that are supposed to be slow-blow are the same thin wire as fast. Where if you know anything about fuses you know you can tell slow from fast at a glance. With these you can't. They are the same.  

Also from experience I can tell you they are if anything over-rated. That is to say they will burn out faster not slower. I blew 2 in my Herron phono stage. Which was new. Talked to Keith Herron about it. Nice long talk. Learned a lot but the Hateful 18 already are struggling to keep up let's not overload their microcephalic little brains.

Its enough to know that like uberwaltz said you can go higher. It also helps to know SR (and probably a lot of the dealers) stands behind their product. I've had several blow and all have been replaced free of charge.  

How they work is easy enough to understand, you just have to be willing to try and understand and not stubbornly refuse to accept reality like the Hateful 18 do. Ted uses his Tesla coil to run a few million volts through them. This actually works. I know someone built a smaller Tesla coil and is doing the same sort of thing. But they are so sick and tired of the reprehensible behavior of the Hateful 18 they made me swear never to mention it. Same goes for the little gray blob Ted puts on his fuses. It says right on there do not remove. Don't take my word for it. Remove it. See what happens. There's very similar gray blob material been written up at length on this site does almost exactly the same thing. Goes to show just how deluded the Hateful 18 are that they act as if they don't know this.


Anyway, point is, however you explain it the fact is this stuff really works. Which drives the Hateful 18 absolutely nuts.
Its a short trip.

Me personally, been using them a long time. Many have. Not a single instance of component damage resulting from fuse failure in all of that. Highly recommended.

Applies only to Synergistic. No idea what anyone else is doing, how or if they work at all.