Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?


I have just acquired a 32 year old JVC/Victor TT-101 DD turntable after having its lesser brother, the TT-81 for the last year.
TT-101
This is one of the great DD designs made at a time when the giant Japanese electronics companies like Technics, Denon, JVC/Victor and Pioneer could pour millions of dollars into 'flagship' models to 'enhance' their lower range models which often sold in the millions.
Because of their complexity however.......if they malfunction.....parts are 'unobtanium'....and they often cannot be repaired.
128x128halcro
Dear @lewm : Normally in this and other threads but in the same subject your advise is the same : replace electrolytic caps and you terrorice the DD vintage owners with that not very good founded advise.

If you take 10K vintage DD TT maybe you can find out 10 of them that could be with some kind of problems and I'm not saying in specific that those problems came from the caps but from anywhere.

I own sevfal vintage DD TT from Denon, Technics, JVC and Pioneer and no single one even that were out of play for " hundreds " of years when I put to spin everything is fine.
Many of my  audio friends here what own are vintage DD TT and no one and I mean it never had a single problem with.

I respect you as as I respect other gentlemans in the thread but I think that we don't have to be worried about especially with units as that @gillatgh  's Sony.  Don't need to terrorice because of that.

I own other vintage electronics and never never failed because electrolytic caps ! ! ! 

Things are that from some years now the refurbished vintage TT ( as after market analog " improvements " items .)  is the best audio bus$sines of the last two centurys thank's to that " terrorice "  with no clear foundations that as always only: " I like it more than before. ".

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
@lewm

I have also seen your blanket statement that all vintage DD’s need to have all electrolytic capacitors replaced.

I have asked my tech (same as Halcro’s) a couple of times and he has stated - NO. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it unless its a known problem.
Replacing caps for no reason on 30+ year old boards/wiring can cause other issues as well as cost the customer $$ for no sound quality benefit. If a cap leaks, its easy to replace/fix is his advise.

My Exclusive P10 had speed issues and my tech replaced most of the caps, however it ended if a IC circuit was the issue - nothing to do with caps.
My Exclusive P3 stopped - it ended up just being fuse - he did not want to replace any caps as the table works perfectly.
My Technics SP10 mk3 famous speed chip failed - my tech fixed it per JP’s advise to bypass the IC circuit till he makes his new IC chips. I did not even ask him to replace the caps this time.

I agree with Raul on this one - no need for replace all electrolytic capacitors imo :-)

cheers
Ok, boys.
i really couldn't care less what anyone else does. My advice is sincerely offered, and that's all it is... advice. A more conservative approach with which I would also agree is to inspect all the existing electrolytics for swelling or leakage of fluids, and then to replace only those that exhibit such signs.

Obviously , any work done by an incompetent person could create problems, rather than fix or prevent them. That's always a caveat.

Anecdotal reports that this or that DD has run apparently well for decades with no servicing prove nothing. It's a fact that electrolytic capacitors have a finite life span, like it or not. I do agree as I wrote above that regular use and controlled temp and humidity could greatly prolong trouble free service. Do you still have a problem?



By the way also, unless one has owned the DD from new, one cannot be certain that the electrolytics in the circuit were not already replaced by a previous owner, thus making it seem as if the turntable is defying laws of nature. That's one more reason why anecdotal reports should be taken with a grain of salt, albeit the Sony in question apparently is in the possession of its original owner. Cool.

Conversely I've been in to a lot of units for various reasons that appeared to be working fine that weren't.  The good DD circuits are great at compensating for all kinds of ills.  I've seen grossly miss-calibrated drives where the motor was fighting itself, and the owners heard no audible ill-effects. 

Every SP-10MKII/2A/3 I've been in has had physically and electrically leaking caps.  The ones that would still spin seemed to spin fine, even though upon measurement they were clearly unhealthy.

Some fare better, some worse.  The bottom line for me when doing a refurb is that the average life of electrolytics is well established, testing each one isn't worth the time, and there's no way to predict when a cap may become marginal or flat-out fail.  Failed or failing caps don't always physically leak or vent. 

I've never been an advocate of shotgun parts replacements in place of fault-finding and repair, and do caution amateurs that doing so can cause issues as they may indeed cause other failures in the process. 

Once in a great while I do end up eating some hours when replacing known problematic parts due to other failures.  It's rare and I don't charge for that time.

This isn't my day job, and my primary motivators are to ensure pieces leave performing at least to factory new levels, and to do everything within reason to ensure I never see a unit come back.