Step by Step How to Use a Digital Multimeter / Oscilloscope for Azimuth Adjustments


So I did the usual azimuth setup for a VPI using the rod on top of the tonearm groove (method of setting that is included with VPI turntables from factory) on my VPI Classic 3.   I also bought one of those clear blocks on Amazon with the lines so you can get it as flat as you can visually.   It does sound good just doing this but I wanted to go next level and see if I could do it electronically even better.    I have read you can use a digital multimeter (DMM) or oscilloscope to do the adjustments.   I found on Amazon a Hantek 2D42 that has both features and I bought the BNC to RCA connectors for it so I can interface it with my turntable or alternatively the preamp output on my Sutherland 20/20 for boosted signals.
That all being said, how do I use this for setting the azimuth?   I have read you can use either device (DMM or Scope) to do this adjustment but it seems like the directions are pretty sketchy on how to do it.
I looked into buying the Adjust + software but as of August 2021 it isn't available to buy any longer so that isnt an option.
Anyone know how I can use this Hantek to do the testing and adjustments?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
newguru
@lewm , do you sometimes feel as if you are talking to yourself?
You need to get you one of those Analog Magik thingies, $850. Every degree counts:-)
bikerbw, Harry is perhaps the last person you should be taking advice from. He is obviously not familiar with mounting jigs, robots and RF activated adhesives. The cartridge manufacturers to not manufacture their stylus assemblies. They buy them from a limited number of suppliers. They do orient the cantilevers in the motor assembly and are responsible for the final orientation. This is done with a grid under magnification. My experience is obviously with a limited number of cartridges but I do examine all my cartridges under magnification when they are new and for the last 20 years all of them have been on the money. The glue technique is being used because cantilevers have gotten thinner and the materials are difficult to drill making glue a better choice than holes. It also puts less mass at the end of the cantilever for better tracking. The only downside is that on rare occasion a stylus goes MIA.
new guru,
I use the inexpensive Hantek DSO5072P scope and the Analogue Production test record. It’s a different record, cartridge and phono pre than yours. The crosstalk was 75/150 mv at the phono pre out. It sounded undistorted. Bringing it down to 65/80 mv brought out the magic. The crosstalk signal was easily above the noise at those levels (visual).
Mijostyn, You wrote, "all you have to do is get a test record with a test tone equal in both channels, reverse the leads on one channel at the cartridge, put your meter on AC and adjust the azimuth for the lowest voltage."
Obviously, your method is much simpler than mine, too simple in fact.  First, any channel imbalance will dominate any crosstalk.  So essentially you will be correcting for channel imbalance. Using azimuth to correct for channel imbalance is NOT good, because azimuth has little effect on that parameter, and one ends up with very extreme azimuth angles. (I tried this once just to verify the fact that azimuth does not much effect balance, using my Triplanar.  The cartridge ended up about 20-30 degrees off top dead center to achieve a 1.5 or 2db change in balance.) Second, as you say, your method addresses only one of two possible goals of electrical setting, the choice to equalize crosstalk, L channel into R and R channel into L. It wouldn't work for the goal of "least" crosstalk, where there is no thought of equalizing crosstalk. (I hope that makes sense; think about it.)  In all my experience, if you aim for equal crosstalk (L into R = R into L), that setting is not the same setting as for lowest amount of crosstalk, where equality between the two sides is ignored.  There are whole white papers written by guys who know more than we do about why one or the other goal is "best".  Anyway, I am now a follower of Korf's method; I have ceased even to measure electrical crosstalk.
@lewm  is dead right.

According to Peter Lederman, matching electronically usually means equalizing channel separation, which is a bad idea which can lead to a poor adjustment. So if you have a high end cartridge, with natural channel separation of say 37dB in one channel and 43dB in the other, you have to cant the stylus at a ridiculous angle to equalize.

Ask me how I know. My higher end Koetsu must have been at 10 degrees to equalize channel separation. Sounded terrible. Set optically and then by ear, and the cartridge sounds sublime. And it scarcely wears at all.

Assuming I've interpreted Lederman correctly and my observations are not too subjective. Anyway, YMMV.