Somehow static just disappear.
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Eddy - haven't experienced what I consider "static" from tubes but definitely a few random pops soon after start up that eventually turned into tube failure... an EL34 power tube. Static to me is a more prolonged sound, sort of a rapid, lower volume crackling. I'm wondering if it could be due to a dirty or loose connection that got "fixed" when you changed out gear. Have you returned the ARC gear to service and is the static noise still gone? Good luck.
ghosthouse, Thank you for you responded. The static noise is still there. Windows were opened so I couldn't hear static at that time but after all windows closed I heard static noise again. Did some search on Schitt Modi and found some people having the same problem. Yes, it is low volume cracking noise and continue making same noise until I unplug usb cable. Will not hear static noise when I play the music. I will have to check with my Cary SLI80 again if it make noise like ARC to make sure. This Modi is only $150, it might be too cheap that's why I having this problem. I was going to spend $1,200-1,500 on DAC but something came up and need to use those money so I just pickup the Modi for temporary for couple of months and now I am afraid to buy Schiit Gungnir Multibit, might try different brand.
Hello again Eddy. I use a Macbook Air into a Gungnir via USB but it isn't connected directly. In between there is a V-Link USB/SPDIF converter. The Gungnir does not have a USB input. No noise. Things are very quiet. You might try calling or emailing Schiit to see what they think the source of the noise might be. Or, maybe consider an Audioquest Jitterbug. They are supposed to clean up the USB/audio signal from a computer...only $50. The other thing i did on my system was get a split USB cable...one leg for signal one leg for power. Both legs have A type USB connectors and are joined at a single common B connector that goes into the V-Link (or, in your case would go into the Modi, I'm guessing). There is a V-Link on A'gon for $110 if you want to try that.
Hello ghosthouse, This guy on Computer Audiophile had similar problem and use something similar to Audioquest Jitterbug and solved his problem. Here is the link, the last posted shown what he used, http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac-digital-analog-conversion/noisy-schiit-modi-help-needed-oth...
What do you think about Audioquest Jitterbug and the one that he used here
The guy at Schiit told me to try certified USB 2.0 under 2 meters. And I don't think this is the problem because I did with 4 feet USB and still got static but will go out and buy certified one to try out today if I can find one, mostly have to order online.
"The Gungnir does not have a USB input." ghosthouse, I'm listening to my Gungnir Multibit via USB right now as I type. It certainly has USB input.
Eddy, agree to try a certified USB cable. If ordering online check out Blue Jean cables on amazon or their own website, very affordable and reliable source for ethernet, usb etc.
The galvanic isolator would probably help, but for your temporary setup, not worth investment. Wires are all antennae. Experiment with physical layout of the computer, dac, etc. Minimize wires touching each other and when they have to cross, try to keep at right angles. Bundle extra length with plastic ties or twisties from grocery store(not as good because there is metal inside). Neat cables minimize noise. Cheers,
Spencer - Wasn't trying to generalize about all Gungnirs - but can see how what I wrote could be understood that way. Had I written "The Gungnir in MY system does not have a USB input.", things would definitely have been clearer. Good clarification.
Eddie - I can't compare that galvanic isolator to the JitterBug. Sorry. The JitterBug is only $50 or so from MusicDirect and they do have a (60 day?) return policy, so you could try it and send it back if it did not fix your problem.
Schiit also makes something called the "Wyrd USB Decrapifier". $110 from Amazon. See link here:
I take it you have tried other USB ports on your MAC as well as moving the Modi from near the monitor, etc. (as suggested on that Computer Audiophile thread).
Eddy, now you are getting to next level in computer audio learning. Yes, noise from computer passed to dac via usb is a HUGE problem. That's why Schitt makes Wyrd(which I use), even better according to many is Uptone Regen. Other things like iFi cable with separate power and signal legs all are trying to deal with this problem. Computers are noisy, since they usually are running many processes all generating noise. Many audio software programs, try to get the computer to turn off other processing to quiet down the computer so less noise goes to the usb/dac.
IMHO the most exciting development is the newer ethernet streamers that let you replace your computer with a small low power low noise linux box and stream your library from a network attached storage (NAS) drive located in another room and attached by ethernet cable only.
This is a rapidly changing corner of the audio world. IMHO, Sonore, Uptone, Aurender and other companies moving in this direction are leading where digital high end music is evolving. Cheers,
Eddie - I'm guessing you will be wanting to try a "double-headed" USB cable that separates signal from power. The one from iFi (Gemini Dual Headed USB cable $265 for 1.5M on Amazon) is kind of pricey, I think. There are some lower cost options.
I bought one from a seller on Ebay [Doukmall (China)]. At the time it was only $59. I use it with an inexpensive Enercell 5V AC/USB converter. No noise and things sound great.
Here's a link to the latest from Doukmall.
Looks like the price has gone up but still cheaper than the iFi. If you are skeptical about the quality of the power from the Enercell you can try the Wyrd from Schiit.
Here on A'gon there is a seller robpriore who sometimes lists a "USB Disruptor". It is also a double-headed USB cable but he sells it with a power supply and the price was previously only $74 or so. I don't see it currently listed in the usual Digital/DA Converters category so you might want to drop him a note and inquire about current availability.
Here's a link to a discussion about it:
Hope this is of use. Good luck.
Spencer, ghosthouse, Thank you. I think I will do double headed USB cable myself. I have USB certified 10 feet and 6 feet coming so I will give it a try. But will try with 5V DC (http://www.amazon.com/Sony-CPV3-2800mAh-Portable-Supply/dp/B00FAJYO58) first then will order wall plug Emercell.
Eddie - do you already have that Sony portable power supply? I'm just wondering how long it will last in an audio application. You could also just try using a typical wall plug/USB converter like for charging an iPone...or even a powered USB hub, for that matter.
Whatever you decide, good luck cleaning up that static.
Hello ghousethouse and Spencer,
No more static noise by using double-heated USB (very easy to do it by myself, only cost less than $10). By using 5V cell phone portable rechargeable battery I can hear hi pitch noise came from tweeter but my ear have to be very very close (almost have to touch the speaker grill) to be able to hear that hi pitch noise. I am waiting for USB power adapter wall charge that recommend from someone from other post to show up and will give it a try. I don't know if I have to worry about those small hi pitch sound or not since it is can't really notice unless my ear have to be next to or touch tweeter speaker grill. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enercell-5V-1A-AC-to-USB-Power-Adapter-Charger-P-N-2730700-/321870766809?has...
Here is what I did on the cable. You need two USB A-B cables.
The purpose of this is only run data from your Mac to DAC without using noisy 5v power from your Mac. So we have to run 5v directly from wall charger to DAC.
1. cut out the first cable, will use only type A (this will go to wall charge)
- only use 2 wires: red(+5V Vcc) and black(ground)
This is power cable
2. second cable, open the cable shielded up (I did about 2" on mine so I can solder very easy) and you will see 4 wires(red(+), black(ground), green(data-), and white(data+).
- cut only red and black wires
- leave white and green wires alone
(Type A end will go to your MAC and Type B will go to your DAC)
3. Need to solder the first cable (power wires) type A to type B on the second cable so the DAC will get power directly from wall charger not from your Mac. Do the following
- solder the first cable red wire from type A to second cable type B red wire.
- solder the first cable black wire from type A to second cable type B black wire.
(This type A end will go to the wall charger and type B will go to DAC)
Sorry, it is a bit hard to explain in writing, I am sure someone will explain in writing much better than me but I can call you and explain on the phone better. Just message me your phone number.
Eddy - Thank You. I think I get it. I did not know which of the wires in an intact USB cable were carrying signal vs power. Sounds like red & black carry power so those (red to red & black to black) need to be soldered together to join the leg from the 5V power source to the USB cable running from the MAC to the DAC.