setting azimuth on VPI turntables


I purchased a VPI Scoutmaster a few weeks ago, being unenthusiatic over the sound, I was considering selling up until last night.

I had been over cartridge setup for this table a number of times, getting overhang, alignment, azimuth, VTF, and VTA just right. Still, things were not sounding all that good.

I had previously purchased the Fremer DVD so I did know about setting up this table optimally. I surmised the rod method of setting azimuth, as instructed in the VPI manual, was not optimal and part of the culprit in non-involving sound.

I finally got around to purchasing a DMM with a low enough AC voltage scale the other day. After much trial and error I finally got a crosstalk differential of less than 1%, a miracle with this setup. Setting azimuth on this table is a real PITA, everytime I got azimuth within specs, VTF went out of balance.

Eventually I got it right, the payoff in sound was way big time! Center image is now 'locked in', way more solid and dimensional. Images are also now floating free of the physical speaker, spaciousness, air in spades, a much more organic sound.

Having heard some complain about this table's uninvolving nature and lack of musicality prompted me to post this thread. I suspect many have not had their table set up correctly, because I certainly heard what they were talking about prior to getting azimuth 'locked in'. VPI owners, it is absolutely necessary to set azimuth electronically, the rod method in not nearly good enough! Get a proper DMM or get someone knowledgable to set up your table, you just might be in for a big surprise!

Vinyl setup:
VPI Scoutmaster, non-signature, Valhalla wired arm wand in near future
Dynavector 20XL
Cayin Phono One
DIY wall shelf using 3" thick maple
Bright Star Big Rock, going to try Gingko 11 in near future
SDS and ring clamp coming soon
sns

Showing 2 responses by sonofjim

I've always set the azimuth up on my SSM by the rod/ear method with good subjective results. I'm considering double checking with a DMM based on what I've seen here and elsewhere. There appears to be a new option from Feikert in the form of software called Adjust + which looks like azimuth is set with an oscilloscope on your computer screen. I think this runs 400-500 dollars though and I've been trying to find input from someone who knows more about it or has used it. Is it worth the expense or can I get similar results using a DMM and Cardas test record?
Yes, my system does have that locked in quality just from carefully leveling azimuth with the rod. I think I will double check this with a DMM for about $40. I'm not sure I want a $400 tool that makes me feel like I need to check azimuth for each record. I guess the next step would be to buy a separate alignment protractor for each record!