Replacing Rel Sub Cable

I have a Rel Stentor sub and run my wires from the amp to the sub. (High level input) Can I upgrade this odd cable?
You bet you can, I recently had a recommendation from Robert Stein of The Cable Company (a good guy) at ( to upgrade the nuetrik speakon connector for REL subs by having XLO custom make a Pro-600 nuetrik to a 3 wire cable, terminated with banana plugs. I then used Monster X-Terminators to piggyback the new cable to my already crowded bi-wired speaker terminal. Robert felt that the cable upgrade was about as good as an upgrade to the next higher REL sub category. I got an improvement in pitch and instruments became more full sized with the new cable as well as a feeling that the sub was "exciting the room" and not just adding the lower frequencies to my B&W 805's. It should cost under $250 depending on the length you need. Let me know if you pursue this, and how it all works out. According to REL, this shouldn't make a difference, but they agree it does! Good luck.
If you have not already done so; also upgrade the stock power cord that comes with the REL. The improvement was instantly noticeable on my REL when I upgraded the power cord.
ooops! I forgot abut that. Sugarbrie is right. Sugarbrie, what PC are you using?
I am using a Vansevers power cord. (Not the Pandora).
Transparent will also make a custom cable for you in any of its products levels.
On my Stadium II, powercord upgrades made a very noticeable improvement. I have tried several and am now using the Analysis Plus with the Wattagate connectors to good effect. Placing the sub on a hard surface with Black Diamond Racing Cones/Pits against the cabinet bottom made a remarkable improvement in transient speed and detail. Also, a Sumiko guy recommended placing a bag of lead shot on the cabinet top to damp cabinet expansion, which makes the sub quicker in my system.
Dem, Can you give me a little more detail in your set up of the racing cones please? I have my Strata III with its
spikes directly into my wood floor and wonder if there is a better set up, (I can live with a few holes in the floor, but not dull sounding gear).
Bmpnyc, I agree...dull is bad, holes are good. I try to get a faster sound verses a softer, less-focused bottom-end. I seem to get better results using BDR's under speakers verses spikes...which was also the result with the Stadium. I triangulate three #4 BDR's /Pits with the Pits' surfaces against the underside of the REL cabinet, the BDR's flat surface against the Pits, and the tips of the BDR's resting on the sub-platform. Before I used the Pits, I used 2"x3"x3/4" pieces of oak with the BDR's instead, (which sounded just as good as the Pits in this application). This gave me just enough height needed to clear the feet attached to the Stadium. I use a spiked sub-platform I made of 2 pieces of MDF sandwiched with 3/4" furring strips creating 6 fairly good sized "pockets" half-filled with sand. I also have 805 Nautilus' and making the REL's faster really compliment these speakers.
Thanks for the details DEM, I will have to read a bit closer later., gotta run.