Parallel? How do you set the VTA?


Silly question, but how do you guys determine whether your tonearm is parallel to the record surface? I had my tonearm set up happily for months, but recently started messing around with the cartridge alignment and the VTA, and I'll be damned, but the folded index card method gets me nowhere now. Even with adjustments I keep getting the same visual effect. Happily my ear tells me when the setting is off, but as a base, how do you determine conclusively your tonearm is parallel? For reference, I have a VPI Classic. Thanks.
actusreus

Showing 10 responses by actusreus

+1 Rockitman. I've thought the same thing ever since the Graham hit the market.
Brf, the USB microscope is a great tool as well for sure, and is on my to-buy list. I like some of the DinoLite models with measuring software, but they are around $300 so the purchase will have to wait.
I agree with Stringreen. The eyeball method can be quite misleading and unreliable, even if the tonearm is not tapered like the Classic wand. What prompted this post was the discovery that as I kept changing the VTA, the index card seemed to show hardly any change. I found it rather confusing, and wondered whether there was a more reliable method to ensure the tonearm is parallel as a base from which to make adjustments. I suppose a tiny bubble level could be a way to go, but affixing anything to the tonearm will then affect the VTA so it needs to be taken into consideration.
Brf,

The headshell is parallel to the armwand on the Classic tonearm, which is not tapered. I found the headshell to be too small to accurately determine whether it's parallel to the record surface. Plus, it has two mounting screws sticking out, which makes it even more difficult to read its position. I guess a tiny level could be used, but I've never seen a level small enough available commercially that would fit on top of the headshell behind the screws.

Also, I realize ultimately the setting should be done by ear, but the Delos was designed to sound best with the tonearm parallel to the record surface as that's when the coils are apparently aligned optimally. So I would very much like to be able to tell objectively whether the wand is parallel, and take it from there.

Jperry,

How does the stack of cards method work? It's the first time I've heard of it. Thanks.
Manitunc,
Was it you who posted a link to a very small bubble level a while ago in a different post? The one Jmcgrogan linked to is way too heavy at over 6 grams.

Doug,
This conversation reminds me of the discussion we had a while ago about setting the VTF for the Delos at 1.75 g. Yes, my ear has doubtless become more sophisticated and discerning after I got into analog a few years ago, and as I've upgraded to a more resolving equipment, but some of us just don't have the same acute hearing that you do. It makes me feel better knowing that at least I can start my adjustments with a base reading recommended by the designer. If I'm lost in messing with the VTA, VTF, and overhang using different protractors in search of the optimal sound, I'd be reassured to be able to go back to the base settings. Just for that it is worth for me to be able to set up my tonearm parallel to the record surface, just like it is to set the VTF to 1.75g for my cartridge. It might be non-sensical to a seasoned audiophile like yourself, but it makes sense to me, a relative novice compared to many here.
Jperry,
Thanks! That's what I thought it was.

Doug,
I'm working on it...:) Good advice, as always.
1kitch,

This is precisely what I've been looking for! Thank you very much for this tip.
Zenblaster,

"Parallel to the record surface is a starting point" you said. What then in this thread does not make sense to you?

I think we all agree that final adjustments should be done by ear, but starting with a tonearm parallel to the surface makes total sense to me as a reference. Ballparking it by eye does not work for me. So what's nonsensical about it? What does not make sense to me is going blind back and forth not knowing whether tail up or down sounds best to your ears.

Raul,

I think you, just like Zenblaster, missed the point of my original post. Knowing if your tonearm is parallel to the record surface is a point of reference, not an end goal. It might or might not end up sounding best with a given cartridge and set-up. If it does not make sense to you, then please don't waste your time and move on to other posts that do make sense to you. You're acting as if I asked what the best DJ turntable to scratch my records with a Lyra Atlas was.
Wrm57,

Good to know there are other flawed creatures without mystical audio powers out there. I was about to commit myself to an audio asylum for VTA challenged individuals.
Stringreen,

Thank you and all others who provided great advice and tips in response to a simple question without pontificating.
Dover
I have a screw gauge that slips under the arm lift.
1/4 turn of the screw equates to 1/1000 of an inch.
I can hear 1/1000 of an inch like night and day.

Apparently, it takes a 4mm change in the VTA to change the SRA by 1 degree on a 9-inch tonearm, even more on a longer arm. If you can hear a change of 1/1000 of an inch in the VTA, that means that you can hear a change of 0.00635 degrees in SRA, even less if you have a longer arm. You surely are jesting, Dover!

The issue I have with adjusting the VTA for every record and writing it down like Doug and Dover do is that you might very well not have the same setting the next time you listen to that same record even without touching the tonearm. Ambient temperatures will affect the VTF, which in turn will affect the SRA. To illustrate with an extreme example, if Dover can hear a change of 0.00635 degrees in the SRA, a change of a fraction of degree in the ambient temperature would result in a change in the sound that he could hear. I suppose you could account for that by ensuring that the VTF is the same, but that's a lot of work every time you put on a new record, in addition to cleaning the stylus, de-staticking the record and removing any residual dust particles, removing and putting the clamp and the periphery ring back on! Unless you have a listening room that is perfectly air conditioned 24/7...