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next step with magnepan mmgs?

hi, i am using mmgs that i have braced and damped the mdf using the "razor" mod. this is a budget system with all emotiva electronics and mac/pure music /v-dac as my source. i recently put togeather some morrow audio sp-6 speaker wires to go with my ma-2 ics. the sp-6 addition [compared to sp-2] is one of the most amazing changes in a system i have experienced in 4 decades of building systems. you have to trust me on this...haha. is it time to change the xover? i have room treatment, good ac treatment and ac cords. if anyone has done this and achieved great result please tell me how to go. thanks. i would to keep it simple and affordeable. like 200 or less. i have read about the skiing ninja but just too expensive right now....thanks john
hotmailjbc
7 responses Add your response
magfan
1,583 posts
 
Talk / Write to 'Peter Gunn'.
He is a maggie crossover guy, and wears a couple other Magnepan hats. He would probably advocate the old style SERIES crossover for the MMG.

At your request, he'll also send you his schematic......

Now, since you've already done the Razor mod, you may want to reconsider and go with a full-wood reframe and ditch the MDF.

http://www.indiespinzone.com/mag/mag12.html

only you can decide if it's time to 'change the crossover'.
jult52
155 posts
 
OK hotmail - I have a cheap suggestion (as another framed MMG owner): pay careful attention to whether your braced speakers are coupled to the floor. I recently took some steps to isolate my MMGs and it significantly improved the tonality and detail of the sound. And it was cheap. So look at isolation devices.
hotmailjbc OP
571 posts
 
hi jult, i have aurelex subdudes under my mmgs and dual velodyne subs. thanks for the input. and i will contact mr gunn for some info on xovers. i was hoping maybe i could just swap out the existing parts for some superior ones but it might be more complex. i love the performance of these speakers..john
pcking
49 posts
 
Two inexpensive reversible DIY that may make a big difference:

Remove the speaker connection plate and wire around the fuses. To me, this increased the mid and high range resolution and broadened the soundstage.

Also, get them off the floor. Some use stands, but I simple constructed a mdf base with feet to lift them about four inches. The bass tightened and the additional height brought the speakers into focus to my listening position.

I have also switched out Sonic caps for the OEM caps, but noticed little difference.

Good luck.
hotmailjbc OP
571 posts
 
pcking. i agree with your comments. i bypassed the fuse and i,m going to just remove the plate and put better connectors inline. your comment about the caps is what i,m looking for. i wondered if upgrading the components in the x/over would make a difference. i guess it is time to research using 2 amps and an electronic x/over. but this is a rather expensive way to go. i,m trying to keep things sane with my origonal goal of building a modest but impressive system.
magfan
1,583 posts
 
with crossover parts, be careful.
With panels, some go for the honkin' biggest aircore inductor money can buy in 12 or sometimes 14ga. This lowers DCR and the balance of HF / LF in the panel.
You can always torture yourself and wind your own inductors to a higher standard. Make the coil the same number of winds as turns and calculate a coil for no more than 10% DCR change from stock.

Caps are not just caps. Microphonic to some degree, this can be made worse using some of the really HUGE jumbo film caps. Inductance and Series Resistance also come into play.

I don't see how you could go wrong by simpifying the wiring by removing the fuse and some 'extra' wiring and connections.
hotmailjbc OP
571 posts
 
thanks magfan
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