You need JP Jones at Fidelis Analog.
QL10 isn't a DJ TT.
QL10 isn't a DJ TT.
Chakster, I don't know how you can put a number on the repair cost without knowing what is the problem, but I do agree that the cost is likely to be in the vicinity of $1000, if anything other than simple calibration is needed. And here goes my usual mantra: If you're having it worked on by a trained pro, that is the right time to start by replacing all the electrolytic capacitors, if it is likely that they are still the originals. Electrolytics are not built to last 30-40 years. To calibrate before or without updating those capacitors is likely to result in a short term cure of the problem, as the caps will eventually go bad if they are not already bad. Any good repair guy will tell you the same thing.
Totem, No insult intended to you, but it sometimes irks me that people make authoritative statements that tend to mislead the OP. Like Gary inferred, the QL10 was a package that included a plinth (insert model name here), the TT101 chassis, and usually a UA7045 tonearm. So, if you buy a QL10, you get a TT101 in the bargain, along with plinth and tonearm. (Since I own a QL10, I can find out the model name of the plinth, if anyone is interested.) And the primary of the power transformer in my TT101 can be switched for 100V, 120V, and 240VAC input. In my house, it runs on 120V. So, in that way mine is like Gary's. Someone else opined that those that can run on other than 100V were made originally for export and were sold at US military PXs in Japan and Asia. I have no idea if that is true, but it makes sense.
JP, You might want to know that the little glitch at start-up of my TT101, which I reported to you a month or two or three ago, has evidently cured itself. I've been running a very small space heater occasionally in our cool and sometimes damp basement where the TT101 lives, so maybe that did the trick.
Chakster and Gary, It is no discredit to Bill Thalmann that he was unable to fix my TT101. It simply refused to misbehave while in Bill's shop, on two separate occasions. One could hardly expect him to fix a problem that did not present itself. It was only after I tried to fix it myself, and my blind tinkering caused what was an intermittent problem to become constant, that the problem got solved (albeit by JP). I still hold Bill in the highest regard.
Gary, Even if re-soldering all those eyelets proves to be a cure for your issue, I still recommend attention to those electrolytic capacitors and also re-calibration.
Lack of torque may be a sign it needs calibration, which is not a big deal if you can find someone who knows how to do it. Before that, though, the electrolytic capacitors should be evaluated and probably most of them need replacing. Failure of the electronic braking is another sign of needing calibration. (Of course, Chakster is among those who have chastised me for harping on the need to replace the old electrolytics, so...)