Jeff Rowland 201 or 501 for high current demands


I hear a lot of good things about these amps, but will they work for speakers that like a lot of current? The 201 mentions 35 amps and the 501 mentions 45 amps in the specs.

Thanks,

Dave
dbld
Leave them powered. Part of the appeal of these amps is that they consume so little power at idle.
Thanks for the advice. I have had them going with the sat. radio for the past two days. Do you recomend turning them off when not using them or just leaving them powered up? I was thinking about connecting them with my processor's trigger to turn on any time the processor is on. Also, I did not mention but, I am running them with my Kef 107/2
4 ohm speaker if that makes any difference.
Thanks Guido,

That's relatively close. I'll keep it in mind to pay a visit.

Dave
DBLD, I have heard the 201 monos at Audio Connection in Verona, N.J. They did sound marvellous, but had problems driving the 4 Ohm 84DB Maggie 3.6. Reportedly, the 501 can drive the same speakers with great ease instead, but I have not heard them myself. During the audition the 201 monos were connected to the AC via their own stock power chords. By the way, John Rattan at Audio Connection is absolutely a delightful host, and extremele knowledgeable.
Give the 201's about 300-400 hours of break in and they will open up! They are butter smooth but will get much better! People have sold these before breaking them in fully.
I have just purchased a pair of 201. It was my decesion to upgrade from the model 1's. I was reading a thread that said these amps need a long break in. Can anyone offer advice. They just seem a-lot different than my model 1's. The mids are there. Compared to the 1's almost too much there. Maybe because the base is just extremely fast & tight on the 201's and not so deep. Anyhow, can anyone offer advice. By the way, I am using dedicated outlets for each amp and good power cords. I am using Cardis balanced cables from my Krell preamp.
Muralman1,

That is something to consider (the money back guarantee that is). However, I am not the kind of person that would buy something like this with the intention of returning it. I just need to be comfortable with my decision whatever it might be. Right now, I need to attain a better understanding of what's what with amps in general, sort of my own hobbyist due diligence.

Thanks for the tip on the H2O though. It looks (sounds to others that is) very interesting.

Dave
Dbld,

Henry offers a money back guarantee on his H2O amps, no questions asked, he pays postage. Other than that, there is a trial stereo version that is going from here to there all the time.

The review here: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?ramps&1103085768&read&keyw&zzh2o

The reviewer, auidiofankj, is reported to have tried the Rowland 201, and 301, before deciding on the H2O.
So what is truly important when evaluating a potential amp...before listening that is?

The problem is, you cannot always get different amps connected to your same speakers for evaluation.

There is wattage output, voltage output, and amperage output numbers from many manufacturers. How does one make sense of it all, or should you just trust reputations?

My speakers (Legacy Focus 20/20 (back off sean)) are said to want high current amps and are rated at 4 ohms.

I have been kicking around the idea of getting a class A amp, but I keep seeing the digital amps and how many people like them.

Obviouly, I don't know much about this stuff and am just looking for information.
My H2O Signature, another ICE module amp, is rated 45 amps too. I think that is an average reading. The H2O utilizes a very large analog power supply. That may provide the amp with even greater current. All I know is, my amps have more than enough juice for a near dead short, which is what my speakers happen to be.
My Legacy/Coda Monobloc amps are said to have the ability to deliver 90 amps. I do have a dedicated 20 Amp circuit and am using shunyata power products. I am just kicking around the idea of changing amps, but whatever I get, I want to be able to deliver high current.

I have to find a place to hear these things!
I have the 501s and they work very well with Wilson Alexandrias, which need alot of current to sound best. In my experience, these amps need a long break-in period (e.g., at least 600 hours), dedicated lines, high quality power cords and a power conditioner that doesn't limit current. I've had excellent results with Elrod Statement cords and the Isoclean Model 80 A3 conditioner, which can pass 80 amps of current.
I have heard that these amps are a good bit more dependent upon the quality of the power supply than amps with analog power supplies, i.e., if you intend to really push them, you need to make certain that the circuits they are on are not burdened with other electrical devices (or run them on dedicated circuits).

Is that true?
if you can go for the 501's! the 201's just didn't cut the mustard with the ultimate in control on my WP7's (then again I was comparing them to my Lamm's iron fist control).

The 201's are amazing for their cost and they are buttery smooth and completely cool to the touch plus great speaker connectors!