Direction of aftermarket fuses (only for believers!)

Send more paramedics!

Mopman wrote,

"Oh wait! I forgot. Geoff mostly just talks but Bo claims to have this all figured out and doable for his customers. Quantum chips too! Just go to him. Easy answer! That’s what experts are for!"

I'll talk to anyone who will listen.  Heck, I'll even talk to someone who won't listen. Think of it as Tibet Book of the Dead for Audiophiles.

Hey, whaddya know? Al and I finally agreed on something. Try the fuse both ways. Halleluja! I have a feeling Mapman is probably biting his lip about now.

Geoff Kait
machina dynamica
we do artificial atoms rite

In the case of the Audio Magic Beeswax fuse (assuming he’s using the same stock fuse as he did for the Super Fuse (which I had) to drill out and squirt in the beeswax) the stock fuse manufacturer is either unaware of fuse directionality or chooses to ignore it. Don’t they all? Lol Audio Magic itself most likely doesn't have the time and inclination to test each fuse. Thus, no arrows on the Beeswax. Now if Audio Magic made his own fuses, things could be different since he would have control over the wire, and it's correct direction coming off spool.

Ergo, unless I miss my guess, you won’t be able to go by the writing on the fuse for clues on directionality. Even if someone reported his Audio Magic Beeswax fuse sounded best with number and letters written in the direction of the current flow I would be a little suspicious that that is always the case or just random. I hate to judge prematurely or be overly skeptical in this matter, especially considering the rather large number of fuses involved in your case (OMG) but it appears you will have to follow the sage advice which has been given on these fuse threads many times: try the fuse both ways and see which is better. Looks like you will have to determine directionality the old fashioned way.

cheers,

Geoff Kait
Machina Dynamica

"With 19 fuses and either direction the choice, if my math still works correctly, I think that would be 2e19 combinations, which would be fun to perform and see what the optimal combination was by listening. Could be a hobby for lifetime and then some."

The correct way to look at the situation mathematically is that if you replace all existing stock fuses with aftermarket fuses at the same time - without any thought as to each fuse’s orientation - simply by chance approximately 50% of the new fuses will be inserted correctly, let’s say 10 fuses, more or less. So you're already halfway there without doing anything yet. Allow fuses to burn in for say 100 hours to give yourself a better chance of hearing differences in directionality. Then, reverse fuses one at a time and audition the sound after each fuse reversal. You should be able to tell whether the sound improves or degrades each time. If the sound degrades put the fuse back the way it was. It should get easier to decide the correct direction of each subsequent fuse since the sound quality will improve as more and more fuses become correctly inserted. If you're unsure about a particular fuse leave it as it is. You will come back to it later.

After you have completed auditioning all 19 fuses the probability will be much higher that all fuses are now in the correct orientation. It would not be unusual that during the whole auditioning process there was some uncertainty about one or more fuses’ orientation. For that reason the entire auditioning process should be performed again. The second time around, with most fuses inserted correctly already, thus with higher system resolution and sound quality, it should be much easier to ascertain which direction is correct for each fuse.

Geoff Kait
Machina Dynamica
no goats, no glory

This popped up during an Internet search. It’s written by Ted at Synergistic Research. What he’s saying here is that the lettering on the fuse is only a tool to show the direction of the fuse before you reverse it, so you won’t lose track and accidentally insert it the same way as before. I.e., The fuse lettering doesn’t really go in the direction of current. You have to try the fuse both ways. Hel-loo!

"In my experience nearly all fuses are directional including SR Quantum Fuses. I recommend you try them in one component at at time and experiment with directionality. You should immediately notice a preference for one direction or the other. If a component has more than one fuse use a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) to determine direction of current in the circuit. Once you know the direction of current in each fuse holder place all fuses in like direction paying attention to have the letters on the SR Quantum Fuses all in the same direction either reading in the direction of signal flow, or against. Next switch direction and the correct match to your component should be readily apparent. There are just too many variables for me to make a blanket recommendation for all components when such a simple and definitive test is available."

Mapman, you probably didn’t get the memo. Fuses are not only directional in DC circuits, they’re directional in AC circuits, too. You know, when the alternating current is moving in the correct direction the voltage drop is measured as lower across the fuse than when the current is moving in the other direction. Capish? Yes, I know you wish only to learn, Grasshopper.  But first you have to put on your thinking cap.

Mapman, Yup, me, too. Carry on, Jazzman.

Charlesdad wrote,

"Geoff,
I didn’t intend to imply that the SR fuse lettering suggested current flow, rather that this is the orientation providing the best sound quality consistently in my components.
Charles,"

Hi, Charles, can I respectfully suggest you re-read what I wrote? Also re-read what Ted from SR wrote. There appears to be no consistency from fuse to fuse regarding lettering or indication of direction. So you can't go by the lettering without trying both ways.

cheers,
geoff at MD

Oh, someone else is an IEEE engineer? I'm also an AIAA engineer.

Atmasphere wrote,

"This was the first thing that came up when I googled it:
I saw that too. That's an organization, not a field of endeavor like mechanical or electrical engineering"

Gosh, really?

Geoffkait: "I'm also an AIAA engineer."

to which Atmasphere retorted,

"Given your posts here, highly unlikely."

Good one!  I also know how to use Google.  

Cheerios

Thanks for the link to the ton of threads on AA on the dodgy subject of fuse directionality. One thing I see that’s fascinating is that posts on fuse directionality go back at least as far as 2001. So if my math’s right people have been crabbing about aftermarket fuses and directionality for at least 15 years ago.

Charles1dad wrote,

"Hi Jazz,
It's very possible that there could be some degree of marketing hype involved, it wouldn't be the first time for an audio product. That's why I try to keep it simple, I just listen to a product and form an impression based solely on what I hear."

I would probably not call it marketing hype.  I'd call it good marketing.  The whole idea is too catch people's attention, no? Let me give you an example. I call my tourmaline anti static gun product a Particle Accelerator. Is that wrong? 

Geoff Kait
machina dynamica
advanced audio concepts

Al wrote,

"Cool! To clarify for others, AP/MTT refers to an IEEE Chapter on Antennas & Propagation/Microwave Theory & Techniques."

Hey, whaddya know? I was in antennas and propagation for quite a while. ELF, HF, UHF, EHF, strategic communications, MILSATCOM, that sort of thing. Spread Spectrum a plus.

"The Audio Magic fuses are just the stock "Little Fuse" brand. They are decent industry stock fuses, but nothing special (like $4 a fuse). Audio Magic drills and fills the fuse with an anti-vibration solution, which acts to reduce electrical resonances. Resonance definitely plays a part in sound quality, but I have never tried an Audio Magic. Also the Little Fuse wire element is nothing special (just tinned copper at best). These were just too expensive for me to audition."

I had both the Isoclean and the Audio Magic Super Fuse (the model just prior to the Beeswax Fuse) and the Audio Magic Super Fuse was better. I used them both in a Woo Audio all tube Headphone amp with super modded Oppo 103 and naked Sennheisers 600s. The Woo Audio amp used 1942 Tung Sol rectifier and ’52 Sylvania Badboy output tubes. With the high cost of fuses these days, e.g., Audio Horizon, HiFi Tuning, SR Black Fuse, nothing should be off the table especially if you only have one fuse; the fuse on my Oppo was bypassed. ;-)

Here's the blurb for the new Beeswax Premier Super Fuse. Note the anti RFI/EMI blackout powder in the Premier Super and it's probably in the Beeswax too.

Audio Magic latest fuse in the Premiere line - The "Beeswax" Premiere Super Fuse. The Beeswax version is identical to the Premiere version the only difference is Audio Magic uses Beeswax instead of the normal anti vibration fluid, this gives the fuse a very organic flavor but maintains the detail, dynamics and everything the Premier does. The production of this fuse is very difficult, very hard to get the Beeswax into the fuse but the organic sound is too good to ignore.

Audio Magic Premiere SUPER fuse:
The Audio Magic Premiere SUPER fuse incorporates Audio Magic's anti vibration fluid to stop the element from vibrating at 50/60 hz and then the blackout powder super mix to absorb all EMI and RFI riding the element as well as ambient sources and insert a new HRC core which allows the signal to travel through the fuse in a more cohesive and linear manner. The Premier SUPER fuse is 30% better than the Audio Magic's original SUPER fuse in every way!

Let's see, should I use a non UL rated fuse and get better sound or use UL rated fuse and get worse sound? What to do, what to do?

lol

Jea48 wrote,

"geoffkait said:
"The debate here is whether the fuse must be UL listed or not."

NO, what is at issue here is if an audio grade fuse, that is being sold to the unknowing consumer, has been tested and listed by any third party testing laboratory. Period!"

Huh? There is no obligation or requirement for third party testing. Nor is there any requirement for UL listing. There are not even any such requirements for audiophile amplifiers. Hel-loo, End of story.

geoff kait
machina dynamica

jea48
2,039 posts
05-03-2016 11:09am
geoffkait said:
Let’s see, should I use a non UL rated fuse and get better sound or use UL rated fuse and get worse sound? What to do, what to do?

lol
Hell, why stop there. The equipment will probably sound even better bypassing the fuse/s and fuse clips all together.

In fact while you’re at it bypass the branch circuit breaker in the electrical panel and tie the hot of the branch circuit ahead of the main breaker. After all the fewer the electrical connections, the better.

lol

Of course I was not suggesting any such thing as bypassing fuses or fuse clips. The debate here is whether the fuse must be UL listed or not. Just because you can come up with some screwball example such as bypassing fuses doesn’t actually prove anything. And in view of the fact that aftermarket fuses, even when not UL rated, are in fact safe you’d have to be pretty hardheaded not to use them.

tootles

Is no thread safe from over posting trolls? It's getting really hard to tell the heel draggers from the knuckle draggers without a scorecard. 

Jea48 wrote,

""A recognized third party testing lab? That’s very funny!"

You think so, huh? Your ignorance is showing."

Give me me one example, Mr. Smartypants.  Bet ya can't. 

Jea48, if you’re trying to convince me you don’t understand plain English you’re doing an excellent job. There is no advantage to a UL listed fuse. Haven’t you been following the discussion? And nobody ever suggested that drilling a hole in a fuse would not negate the UL listing. But what I’m saying is, so what?

A recognized third party testing lab?  That's very funny!

Jea48 wrote,
Give me me one example, Mr. Smartypants. Bet ya can't.
A $100 bucks payable by PayPal? You game?

Just as I suspected.  You can't.

That’s all really interesting Jea48 but what’s it have to do with audio or audiophile products? Everyone knows there is *such a thing* as third party testing, in fact I was involved at one time with third party testing for VERY big projects, you know Government and Military projects. But the challenge to you was produce any case of an *audio product* that required or third party testing. And you couldn’t. In fact you didn't understand what the bet was.  So I win.

Jea48 wrote,

"geoffkait,

You’re an idiot!"

I didn’t see that coming. Be that as it may that you still haven’t provided a single example of a audio product for which third party testing is required is duly noted.

infection wrote,

""...the higher the resolution and the quality of the components that are involved, the greater the benefits fuse upgrades are likely to provide."

Forsooth."

I hate to make snap judgements but I’m pretty sure there’s no such thing as an audiophile who believes his system is not one of those highly resolving ones. Really, really highly resolving. Especially if they’ve been an audiophile for 40 years.

Jazzonthehudson wrote,

"Somehow this thread turns into, similar to some other threads, to the roast of GK...I wonder why..."

I thought I smelled something burning.

 
atmasphere
4,804 posts
05-11-2016 5:59pm
Geoffkait: "in fact I was involved at one time with third party testing for VERY big projects, you know Government and Military projects."

to which Atmasphere quipped,

"$2000 hammers?"

Ho, ho, ho. No, it wasn't $10,000 toilet seats, either.  

nonoise
2,176 posts
05-12-2016 9:10pm
"Lots of Fuses reviewed here and some I haven’t heard of. Does anyone have any first hand knowledge of the ones not discussed here?
And, if so, how they compare?"

Excellent question. It would be an interesting undertaking (no pun intended) to compare say the top five contenders, HiFi Tuning, SR Black, Audio Magic Beeswax fuse, Audio Horizons, Isoclean. Maybe I missed one or two. Anyway, in order to evaluate the fuses properly so that the results are somewhat credible, each fuse would have to be broken in, then it’s correct direction determined. Thus for five fuses I estimate about what 6 months to a year? One assumes the evaluator would have to resign himself to listening to fuses break in for all that time. The only good news is that after all the fuses are broken in it should be an easy task to evaluate them.

Cheers

nonoise
2,177 posts
05-13-2016 2:34pm
"Thanks Geoff but that does sound daunting.

If anyone cares to look at my above post there’s a link at the beginning of the first sentence that’s partially obscured by the blue background. In it, is a short review on about 11 fuses and how they sound to the reviewer."

I would prefer if possible to get the full Monty report with at least 100 hrs of break in for each fuse. 18 hours on a break in device seems way not long enough. I maintain that you can’t tell if the deficiencies Eric reports are real or if they’re simply the result of insufficient break in. I would prefer the BREAK IN track on the XLO Test CD played on REPEAT for say two weeks. I also would have preferred to see at least the SR Red Fuse in the mix not to mention the Black Fuse. Also the Audio Magic Beeswax fuse or at least the AM Super Nano fuse. And the Isoclean fuse. If you want a super cost effective fuse just try flipping a LITTELFUSE fuse or ANY stock fuse and see if that works.

Addendum: at least Eric tried and for that he is to be commended. I also happen to agree with Eric that the diode symbol on the HiFi Tuning fuses is not intended to show the correct direction the fuse is to be inserted, only to provide cosmetic asymmetry to the fuse so you don’t lose track of it’s direction when flipping it.

Cheers

Psst wrote,

"I’m a believer--that ’Stevecham’s’ post is the most valuable. I wonder how many "get" the "virtually incalculable" figures he’s so elegantly stated."

I’m a math major. Just by blind luck half the new fuses will be in the correct direction before he gets down to evaluating them. That leaves approximately according to my calculations only 9 or so to correct. You just listen to each one and move to the next one. I could do it in half and hour. It’s "incalculable" only to an English Major. No offense to Stevecham, naturally. I will grant you it definitely helps to know what a fuse in the correct direction sounds like.

Al wrote,

"Not sure if anyone here has been that thorough, but it seems to me that the less likely and the less explainable a perceived effect would seem to be, the greater the degree of thoroughness that is called for before reaching a conclusion as to its cause."

Are you suggesting that you have done the experiment with the same "thoroughness" you demand of others? Put another way, it almost sounds like you’re saying if someone's results don’t corroborate your theory then he must have done the experiment wrong. How convenient.

Cheers

almarg
6,392 posts
05-23-2016 5:32pm
Geoffkait: Are you suggesting that you have done the experiment with the same "thoroughness" you demand of others?

"No, Geoff, I’m not. I didn’t say that, and I didn’t mean that.

As you probably realize I haven’t done the experiment at all. But if I did choose to do it, I would do it with the thoroughness I described."

Al, if you (and Atmasphere) really were thorough you would simply eliminate the fuse holder entirely, no?

cheers, geoff

atmasphere
4,816 posts
05-23-2016 6:07pm
Geoffkait: Al, if you (and Atmasphere) really were thorough you would simply eliminate the fuse holder entirely, no?

No. That would never meet UL, CE or other directives.

I meant if you wanted to get to the truth you would eliminate the fuse holder from the equation. You know, for the experiment. Capish? Whether or not aftermarket fuses meet UL, etc. is irrelevant to the question of directionality. You don’t really think audiophiles care if their fuses are UL listed, do you?

UL is a directive? You make it sound like a requirement. 

cheers

Jea48, you would undoubtedly save yourself a lot of angst and confusion by doing some due diligence prior to getting involved in the whole fuse directionality thing. I’m afraid I can’t help you a a there appears to be nothing I can say that you will accept. I think I’ve made myself clear. Good luck with all that.

cheers

Geoff Kait

jazzonthehudson OP
254 posts
05-23-2016 8:23pm
"My experience tells me differently. Before I insert after market fuses, I clean the contacts - as all contacts - if they look clean, with Gold DeoxIT, otherwise first with silver polish, then DeoxIT. I always reverse back the direction to ensure my findings are consistent.

Whenever possible, double blind tests are conducted by wrapping Teflon around the fuses."

Right, and the use of paste type contact enhancers such as Quicksilver Gold (pure silver spiked with gold) ensures a consistent and thorough contact of the fuse end caps with the fuse holder. And guess what? The fuses are still directional. Is this a good time to mention the elephant in the room - wire directionality? Not just fuse directionality, but directionality of interconnects, speaker cables, the wire in transformers, the wire in capacitors, internal wiring in electronics, the wiring in speakers and speaker crossovers, you name it. And power cords - even though they are in an AC circuit. Perhaps even RCA connectors and other stamped, rolled or drawn metal used in electonics. Maybe even fuse holders, though not for the reason suggested yesterday.

cheers,

geoff kait
machina dynamica

atmasphere
4,819 posts
05-24-2016 4:54pm
Geoffkait: "I meant if you wanted to get to the truth you would eliminate the fuse holder from the equation. You know, for the experiment. Capish? Whether or not aftermarket fuses meet UL, etc. is irrelevant to the question of directionality. You don’t really think audiophiles care if their fuses are UL listed, do you?

UL is a directive? You make it sound like a requirement."

To which Atmasphere responded,

"I’m chalking this one to not having read my last post."

I read your last post. I read your last two posts. Did I err? Did I misinterpret something? If so, what? Did you read my post suggesting not using the fuse holder in the experiment? Don't you agree that's the best way to get to the bottom of the fuse directionality issue.

cheers

almarg
6,398 posts
05-24-2016 10:41pm
"I would think that it is not necessary to start modifying hardware and perhaps invalidating warranties in the process of getting to the bottom of the fuse directionality issue. IMO the methodology I suggested earlier should suffice, if done in an honest and careful manner."

Huh? I’m not suggesting that anyone modify hardware or invalidate warranties or any such thing. I’m just saying that you can eliminate the variable of the fuse holder by eliminating it from the test. I’m referring to an independent third party tester. That would be an honest and careful manner, no? Or maybe you’re insinuating that any person who doesn’t get the results you’re looking for isn’t honest and careful, it’s hard to tell. The method you suggested earlier actually doesn’t suffice since some people will jump to the conclusion that it’s the fuse holder that’s directional, not the fuse itself.

cheers,

geoff kait
machina dynamica

jea48
2,071 posts
05-25-2016 11:32am
geoff kait said:

"I’m referring to an independent third party tester. That would be an honest and careful manner, no?"

to which jea48 asked,

"Like UL?"

Yes, UL is a third party tester. You got that part right.  Does UL test for directionality is the part you didn't get right. 

jea48
2,072 posts
05-25-2016 1:07pm
"And what recognized industry third party would that be?

Better yet. I am not disputing whether a fuse is directional or not. I believe many that have actually taken the time and tested it for themselves. BUT, with that said can you furnish anything that proves a fuse is directional? Not from a manufacture of audio grade fuses, but rather from an industry independent third party testing laboratory."

The HiFi Tuning fuse measurements that are provided in data sheets on their website were obtained by an independent third party tester. You probably didn’t realize that. You say you believe many people have taken the time to test directionality. One assumes you’re referring to listening tests. The biggest skeptics of aftermarket fuses don’t even do that. Ah, the academic ivory tower.

As for independent third party tester it could be UL. I personally doubt UL would take the job. It could be someone else, some other organization or even individual. I actually don’t think measuring voltage drops or whatever across a fuse requires a rocket scientist. Maybe you can contact NASA or NIST or MIT and see if they are interested. Lol

Jea48, What on Earth are you going on about? Can you make it easy for everyone to follow your line of uh reasoning and state your problem in a sentence or two?

cheers

jea48
2,074 posts
05-25-2016 2:18pm
Geoffkait: The HiFi Tuning fuse measurements that are provided in data sheets on their website were obtained by an independent third party tester.

to which Jea48 responded,

"For Fuse directionality?"

For fuse directionality and other stuff. Even fuse directionality for AC circuits.

jea48 then asked,

"If it would not be too much of an inconvenience could you produce a web link of the test from the actual independent testing laboratory. Please include certification of the testing lab."

What about this? What about that? What about this? I’ve posted the link a bunch, so has Al. Try the search function. I don’t like to judge these things too harshly but it appears a little due diligence on your end might be advantageous.

jea48 then wrote,

"Again for all others reading this thread I do not dispute whether fuses are directional or not. I personally have not experimented for myself. I do respect the findings of others that have. Until proven otherwise I take the word of those that say fuses are directional."

That is very accommodating of you.

Then jea48 has the nerve to make the comment,

"The question posed to geoffkait is to produce actually proof that a fuse is directional. So far he has not."

So, you believe what everyone says about directionality of fuses without proof. But you hold my feet to the fire? I’m afraid that’s not logical. Don’t you know it’s not proper protocol to demand proof. Besides, I gave up trying to convince die hard skeptics a long time ago.

cheers

jea48
2,076 posts
05-25-2016 4:59pm
geoffkait,

You can’t even provide proof of any credible third party test that fuse directionality is audible.

Why would they test for audibility? They test for measured parameters. Remember? Unless you count audio reviewers.  Would that meet your obviously high standards? 

atmasphere
4,822 posts
05-25-2016 5:29pm
Geoffkait: just to set the record straight, UL is not a requirement or a directive, it’s a guideline or standard.

to which Atmasphere replied,

"I did not state that it was. I did state that the CE mark was a directive, and that there are others. You simply chose to misinterpret, as part of your on-going program to make others wrong."

wiggle, wiggle...

then Atmasphere quoted me here,

Geoffkait: The insinuation that tests that don’t get the "right" results are not honest or careful is rhetoric. His rhetoric. I’ve already pointed out that a scientifically correct test would eliminate the fuse holder altogether.

"Al is not prone to rhetoric. OTOH such seems to be your lifestyle."

What exactly are you insinuating? 


atmasphere closed with this comment,

"A scientific test would not eliminate the fuseholder, not if you actually wanted to know what is going on."

You can test the fuse holder separately if you really were interested in arriving at the truth. I realize you and Al are just playing Ivory Tower, and have no interest or plan to test either the fuse or the fuse holder. That’s the difference between a Skeptic and a Sceptic.

Cheerios

jea48
2,077 posts
05-25-2016 5:51pm
geoffkait said:

Why would they test for audibility? They test for measured parameters. Remember? Unless you count audio reviewers. Would that meet your obviously high standards?

So now you are admitting there are not any credible third party tests that prove fuses are directional. Finally!

Finally what? I never said third party testers tested for audibility. And the reason I never said it is because they don't test for audibility of direction. If you’re trying to convince me you’re a little obtuse you’re doing an excellent job.

cheerios

Geoffkait:I read your last post. I read your last two posts. Did I err? Did I misinterpret something?

to which Atmasphere replied,

"As far as I can tell, you misinterpret on purpose. That makes it hard to have a conversation. Example:

Geoffkait: Or maybe you’re insinuating that any person who doesn’t get the results you’re looking for isn’t honest and careful, it’s hard to tell."

Unfortunately the example you provided has nothing to do with what we’re actually talking about, which is YOUR last two posts and if I had misinterpreted something you said. You have deftly avoided answering my question, instead deciding for some bizarre reason to quote my response to Al on a an entirely different issue. In any case, just to set the record straight, UL is not a requirement or a directive, it’s a guideline or standard. In other words, there is nothing preventing an audiophile from using non UL listed fuses. Audiophiles are not directed or required to use UL listed fuses. In the Government, for example, if the Government specifies that a certain standard is required by the contractor then the standard is required.  Otherwise the particular standard is NOT required. End of story. 

Then Atmasphere opined,

"Al does not insinuate. You are one of the very few I have ever seen to attack Al, who IMO and that of many others is an important asset to this site. You might consider ratcheting down the rhetoric."

The insinuation that tests that don’t get the "right" results are not honest or careful is rhetoric. His rhetoric. I’ve already pointed out that a scientifically correct test would eliminate the fuse holder altogether. I don’t see any reasonable refutation of that approach from either you or Al on that point, just a lot of who shot John.

cheers

I move for a group hug and a few choruses of Kumbaya.

Mitch2 wrote,

"Geoff, You have an obsessively keen interest in fuses for someone who stated they have no fuses in their system. You are doing an excellent job of keeping the ball in play. I suspect you may have some sort of over/under bet to achieve a certain minimum number of posts on this thread. How many more until you win?"

Well, actually I wouldn’t call it an obsessively keen interest, but I would call it a keen interest. Would you believe I actually have a keen interest in lots of things? I imagine anyone who’s had an aftermarket fuse, especially any of the recent spate of advanced audiophile fuses, would agree they’re very interesting. I’ve had the original Isoclean fuse and the Audio Magic Super Fuse. The reason I am currently not using any fuses in my system if simple: why use ANY fuse when you can use NO FUSE at all? My battery powered system doesn’t have a place to put a fuse even if I wanted to. Heck, I’m not even connected to the house AC so I don’t require power cords either. And I don't have an AC ground to fret about. And I don’t use interconnects, either. See where I’m going with this?

geoff kait
machina dynamica

Occam's razor (also written as Ockham's razor, and lex parsimoniae in Latin, which means law of parsimony) is a problem-solving principle attributed to William of Ockham (c. 1287–1347), who was an English Franciscan friar and scholastic philosopher and theologian. The principle can be interpreted as stating: Among competing hypotheses, the one with the fewest assumptions should be selected.

Therefore, going by Occum's razor as Atmasphere suggests, the hypothesis with the fewest assumptions would be that the fuse itself is directional, not the fuse holder. That would be like trying to solve two simultaneous equations in three unknowns. By testing the fuse in the fuse holder you cannot with certainty conclude which one is producing the directionality. Eliminate the fuse holder from the equation and all will be revealed. I strongly suspect that the outfit that performed the tests on fuse directionality for HiFi Tuning fuses, for Isoclean Fuses, for stock bog standard fuses, with and without cryogenic treatment, in DC and AC circuits would have observed that the fuse holder was producing directionality if that was the case. But they didn't. End of story's now if any of the naysayers wishes to get serious, and roll up his sleeves and test fuse holders for directionality and submit his results here I would be happy to comment.

As it turns out the resistance measurements of the various fuses tested that appear in the data sheets on the HiFi Tuning website were done on the fuses only in both directions. Separate resistance measurements for the fuses in the fuse holder are also provided. Refer to page 2 of the data sheets for the resistance measurements in both directions. The interpretation of measurements is presented on page 3.

http://www.hifi-tuning.com/pdf/wlfr.eng.pdf

Just to comment that the way I read the voltage drops is not at all like some other folks, I.e., the naysayers. Here’s how I read them. The differences in voltage drops are not responsible for the differences in sound, they are intended to be only a clue that something is going on. If a fuse was electrically symmetrical wouldn't it measure exactly the same one way as the other? The fact is even the independent tester commented that the voltage drop differences don't correlate with the sonic differences heard in fuse directionality listening tests. I suspect if someone, and I’m not mentioning any names, were to measure *distortion* in the fuse or say *noise* then we might see some more uh convincing differences between fuse directions, not to mention between cryo’d and uncryo’d fuses. Therefore, I wouldn’t get too hung up on the obviously slight differences in voltage drops.

cheerio