Biggest audio hoaxes


Often when people discuss audio, they talk about "snake oil" or "hoaxes."

It's pretty typical to use the term hoax as a tactic against another who disagrees with one, or holds an unusual opinion or vouches for something which has not been verified. That's not what I mean by a "hoax." 

By "hoax" I mean an audio product or claim which has been pretty definitively disproved. Maybe not to everyone's satisfaction, but to common consensus.

So -- with that definition of hoax in mind, what are some of the biggest audiophile hoaxes you've heard of?
128x128hilde45

Showing 5 responses by oldhvymec

hilde45, everything I think of, it may have worked for someone else, just not for me. 

The marker, on the outside of CD.

A GOOD car stereo. I've got pretty good sound, just NEVER a good  STEREO sound.

"Perfect sound", I think is a HOAX, especially claiming "ONE" has it..

I don't think it exist..

Pointing to a thingy, or dingleberries hanging from all the outside room to filter bad stuff.. OR painting the outside of main boxes or south facing walls, painted pink... Not so much.. HOAX? NO, I think NUTS is more like it.. LOL

I been one for a while.. I'll try most ANY thing.. if I haven't already.. :-)

We did have a peddle if you want to watch thing for 6-7 years. Fun when you got 10 kids under your feet.. Kinda like making homemade Ice cream. Keep them busy..

Regard

“ hilde45, everything I think of, it may have worked for someone else, just not for me.

The marker, on the outside of CD.”

There are many reasons why audiophiles sometimes don’t get the results they were expecting. The marker on the outer edge of the CD is an excellent example. There is a very long history of tweaks that didn’t work for some people.

The reasons for negative results include but are not limited to one or more errors in the test system, not following instructions correctly, the test system is simply not resolving enough, the test conductor’s hearing is not all it’s cracked up to be.

I say all this being the only one in the world to have solved the very difficult problem of eliminating the scattered laser light inside the CD player, a problem that coloring the edge of the CD partially solved.

geoffkait

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You wanted to hear from him here you go.. Every now and then he PMs me.. ON this subject it seemed to peak his interest.

My take on geoffkait is pretty simple. I always walked away with more questions than answers. Seen him at a show a time or two. I see ALL oh yea, he’s been around quite a while. I can see him snickering. He is quite a character!

Regards
I've worked as a mechanic a LOG time. Vibration and harmonics GROW if it's not treated with concrete over soil. Two fold over time as things dry more and more between the soil and the concrete.  There is a gap that forms between the two materials. One is solidified (concrete) one is not (soil). They are NOT bound one to the other, when the concrete is poured.

IF you were lucky the guys that poured the slabs compacted the ground or it's poured on a big ol ROCK.

ALL slabs on SOIL get noisier over time, to a point. The way to stop it is to pour friction piers on centers underneath the slab.  A pre slab pour or monolithic makes no difference. One the slab is independent of the piers one they are tied together via mechanically (rebar ties).

Most residential is a 3 1/2" slab. BOUNCING on top of the spring like soil it's VERY NOISY but worst of all the harmonics BUILD as the room loads. It get worse and decay rates go through the roof..

Ricochet Biscuit, come to mind..

DECOUPLE..  and dampen everything you can from vibration. Spikes DO NOT work they are not a hoax they just don't work as advertised.

Dense (normally heaver) cabinet materials work better also, TO a point.

We always isolate or it will deteriorate. In this case SQ. You won't notice it UNTIL you clean it up..

SPIKES are an expensive thing for sure.
Your speaker is already creating all kinds of frequencies at once. It is moving. Do you think that the very very high mass of the concrete floor (w.r.t. the speaker driver) is going to appreciably move?

Do you really think the small level of dampening material in an isolation stand is going to provide more dampening than huge amount of material that a concrete floor is sitting on?

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We are talking about isolation (one from the other) vs absorption (the ability to SELF dampen). A cabinets resonance and the decay rate are what makes the speaker unit a clump of moist clay with drivers stuffed into it or a BOX that had NO mechanical dampening at ALL or parts of it made to amplify a driver with a bull horn

The fact remains that separating thing that vibrate and create there OWN harmonics is far better than trying to share the vibration with everything inside the listening area.. 

The floor covered with concrete over soil is no different than a drum.
Have you ever jumped up and down in a room with 3 1/2 in of concrete floors with a # 10 wire mesh.. It SOUNDS like HUGE kettle drum.. New it is loud.. WAIT till it dries all the way...

The only way to stabilize the center of a slab is to support it and TIE into the slab. It's not a requirement to support a slab UNLESS it's foundational.  A soil floor has nothing to do with passing code. Concrete offers no foundational support other than it's cleaner.. You can still have soil for floors you know...

It is a LOT quieter soil floors. What makes a barn a barn? NO built floors. It's Always about drainage and keeping thing OUT of the weather. Good sound in a barn too.. Not a good place to be raised.. Born yes, raised NO!

Use to love working with heavy timbers frames.. 

Regards
Gremlin chasers are a bread unto themselves.

Sometime they are HEROS. A hero is a guy that MAKES a problem so he or she can be the hero and FIX the problem.  

A real Gremlin, can't find it.. BUT it'd always simple physics. Water cannot flow up hill in a river, but it can in a tunnel. :-)

Master M how's things going?.. All well I hope... Teach um!!