Audio envy - dang!


I usually post on AG when I have an issue or concern, so I’m happy for once it’s to praise a new product, in this case Audio Envy’s IC. 

I use an ARC Classic 60 amp with a Herron 1A preamp. The AE cable went between these two.

I run an ARC Phono pre PH3se from my VPI prime as source.
My speakers are Thiel CS2.4’s

Out of the box a bit bright, But after a few hours that just went to strait up transparent - I mean freaking crystal clear. No tonal aberrations. Smooth, with no etched highs. Voices sound right, Natural. Soundstage opened up, as you might expect when things get clearer.

The best part was how inexpensive they were. They made my Cardas Clear Light interconnects I was using sound clouded by contrast. The Cardas was about x3 the cost of the AE’s.
BTW, this wasn’t “I think I hear differences”, this was “I’ll never use those Cardas in this system again, and where is my IPad, I need to order my next set!”

And that’s just what I did.
last_lemming

Showing 7 responses by last_lemming

Sorry for the late response 

yes it was the studio prestige. 
I just got my xlr’s in, same great clarity. 
I have an early prototype he made up for me after a conversation I had with him about me wanting to see if the prestige IC would work. I use it on my Technics 1200GR and it goes to my Parasound JC3+. 
As usual very clear and natural. 
It looks to me to be a hollow copper pipe, which should compress a bit to fit tightly if that is the case. 
My SP-9 speaker cables came in last night. 
I replaced the PAD cables I had and the immediate difference appears to be more clarity and not as dark. They appear to add or take away nothing, at least compared to the PAD cables. 
My only complaint is the spade design, it’s nothing like I’ve seen before. I’ll try to describe it:  so for one wire, say the  + lead, imagine it runs down to a plastic “V” with the two legs each about 1/8” inch wide by about 1/16” thick and about 1/2” long. The wire comes through a barrel of plastic and the end of the “V” where the wire splits into a “V” shape and follows down each leg of the “V”. Then what appears to be a copper tape binds the wire to the leg and acts as the conductor for the signal. So you slip it over the binding post and when you tighten down the post the copper tape is pressed down forming the connection.  
In practice I don’t know if this is the best approach, but you have to be a bit careful since the splayed nature of the “V”
geometry means the outer most edges of the “V” could potentially hit the adjacent “V” on the adjacent binding post and cause a short. 
@maxima95 

No mine do not look like that. I don’t think there is a pic on the site of mine but I may be mistaken. 
@lalitk 

Why do you say tailor made?  Do you know the gage of each wire, or your best guess?