Cold room, Bad for equipment?


I'm a very fortunate guy in as much as I've recently finished transforming a gutted detached garage into my dedicated listening room.After 1.5 years and hundreds of personal man- hours I am putting the finishing acoustic panel touches and tweaks and finally enjoying the music. It is extremely well insulated with R-13 insulation between the studs and a layer of both 5/8" drywall over 1/2" quiet rock all around, except for the ceiling which is only 1 layer of 5/8" and the R-13. Floor is carpet over laminate over Dri-core, so that's not a problem either but I live in NY and due to the added complexity of an HVAC system, I have not added any heat to the room.With winter temps dropping to less than freezing I'm wondering what is considered a minimum temp I should try to be maintaining through the use of portable space heaters in order not to be harmful to my equipment. This includes a mix of some units in stand-by mode (my tubed pre-amp with low voltages keeping them warm) as well as CD transport, Dac, and self-powered sub woofer which are always left on. Amps are left off of course, both a big solid state Classe monster as well as a tube amp.My in-room thermometer has read as low as 50 F tonight and the space heater brought it up to 60... Obviously the amps will warm things up a bit while playing but the big question is how low can I let that temp go without doing any possible harm to anything???Note there is 1 30"x60" window with blinds and a 3/8" piece of sheetrock pressed up against it (from the inside), effectively sealing it closed. The one door is a standard"outside" door with a separate glass storm door outside of it. The original 'car' garage door has been sealed and a new internal framed wall (sheetrocked as the others) is in its place. Thanks in advance.
lissnr
Get a direct vent space heater and a have a propane company deliver a 100 gallon tank. Set the heater at 40-45 unoccupied. Nothing wrecks a finished space faster than no heat. Ever notice how abandoned buidings go deteriorate so quickly? The heater is under $1,000 and the 80 gallons of propane will cost you $2.30/gallon. Turn up the heat half an hour before use and enjoy.
http://www.rinnai.us/direct-vent-wall-furnaces/
The cooler,the worse I'd think.When you turn on cold equipment,it will most likely have more inrush current,shock, and condensation. Also,if you have natural gas in your house,maybe you can have an extra gas line run to your garage.Then use the above mentioned type heater.When you go in there,everything will start to get condensation,like your car windows.Mold too? Check the owners manuals for operating temps and humidity also.Hope you get something done to enjoy it.♫
Very large swings in temperatures aren't the optimum way for most anything to endure.

Having 'a pocket' to trap out the immediate impact of varying temp changes will help. In those pockets the use of insulation affects the conductance of cold and heat. Temp or insulated windows for ex. have a pocket of air trapped between two panes of glass, and do not touch each other. Not using such a plan allows for quicker transconductance of the energy... be it cold or hot.

Cooler is better than warmer usually, with electronics. Avoiding measures which prevent llarge swings of temps is not a good idea. Glass for ex (like tubes for instance) break far easier when ice cold. Condensation is the result of the difference between two areas or surfaces by their own temps. Like a glass of ice tea sitting outside on a warm day... water will bead up on it's surface. you don't want that happening with your gear.

So two things have to be addressed. Humidity and temperature. Optimumly, keeping both of these at steady states is best. Naturally, keeping the temps lower is better too. Too a point.

But consistency with each will provide the better result.

For the most part insuring the inside temp is kept steady, between 60 & 70 degrees all should be well. Ice cold is great for ACs... but not for electronics... especially if the components are not being left on routinely.

i'll put it all this way... IF I could afford to keep my equipment room at 55-60 degrees F, and I had no worries of abrupt power outages and restarts, I'd leave much, if not all, of my gear on all the time.

Using NOS tubes gives me some pause in this regard... they're getting more and more expensive and in some cases... extinct... leaving them on all the time is kind of like waving goodbye to them faster than I want too.
I’d also not wish to energize tube gear from ice cold as a rule. The filaments can apply heat too rapidly and cause frozen or very cold glass to fracture as they are being warmed up to quickly. That’s not a good thing… as they are no longer vacuum tubes at that point and become only trash.

As your gear and you are both in the same room there’s that being comfortable while listening/viewing thing too. I heard once sometime bback, acoustic instruments and speakers are like people. Keeping them in likewise moderate temperatures is always best. If it’s not comfortable for you, it’s not comfortable for it/them.

When or if you exercise, you want to reach an optimum steady state temp… not range back and forth from extremes to extremes. Gear is the same way. You’ll run farther when it’s low humidity and cool than you will when it’s hot and humid… so will your system. Avoid extremes… and extreme changes… you’ll be fine.
.....I've recently finished transforming a gutted detached garage into my dedicated listening room.

It is extremely well insulated with R-13 insulation between the studs and a layer of both 5/8" drywall over 1/2" quiet rock all around, except for the ceiling which is only 1 layer of 5/8" and the R-13.
Lissnr
The space above the ceiling should have at least an R-30 insulation rating, R-40 being better yet. Most of your heat in the room is going up through the roof.
Jim