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DIY Anti-IC project

I'm sold on Speltz Anti-Cable and Anti-IC products; they're great. First tried a set of biwire cables for my Magnepan speakers (bought the wire bulk from Speltz @ $1.25 per foot and using in twisted format with no termination), then a 1/2-meter set of Anti-ICs for between preamp & amp (TAD-150 and 60 respectively). Later I decided to install another set of the ICs between CD player and preamp, and inquired about buying the IC wire in bulk form in order to make'em myself (construction of these looked easy enough), but was told this particular gauge of wire is not available for purchase separately.

So, I was on the verge of ordering another 1/2-meter set, then one night while listening had a brainstorm: Why not construct a set of "super" Anti-ICs from the heavier gauge Anti-Cable speaker wire? Since my amp sits on top of the preamp, a 16" pair would be more than enough length, and then I could use the 1/2-meter set I already owned for between CD & preamp. So, I ordered 10' of bulk Anti-Cable from Speltz and (4) Neutrik RCA connectors from Parts Express ($1.75 each). I spiraled the cable around a 3/8" dowel rod, and used a single run of wire through the middle to complete each cable. Upon substitution of my newly-concocted "Anti-IC Plus" interconnects for the standard Speltz version, there was an immediately noticeable improvement in bass depth and impact, along with increased dynamics throughout the range and a bigger and more open sound stage.

I would not have written about this if the difference were less than subtle, in fact, I am one that is not a big believer in "cables can make a difference" (old-school engineering mentality) - But for the cost of $20 for the materials needed to make these interconnects, I urge any DIY'er to give it a shot - You'll like'em. (Email me for a photo of the finished cables if curious.) -Gary
ggeers222
mcintech
128 posts
 
I found a similar result fiddling with DIY Pre-Out Amp-In jumpers. Using a single strand of solid copper from AudioQuest Type-4 was OK, but the same RCA's with a single strand of solid copper CAT-5 wire of same length was the best; clearer and faster sounding. Could it be 'too much skin for the skin effect'? (insulation left on for both types)

One would think that wires less than 3 inches would have little if no effect, but it was quite apparent on my MAC 1900 receiver.
gerrye123
11 posts
 
As the "link" between Gary and Paul, I thought I should add my comments to this thread. I have no reason to doubt anything that Gary wrote. OTOH, I thought Paul's response was very reasonable.

If you boil it down, I think this discussion can be summed up in one word: BALANCE. I'll use an example to make my point. I use a DIY speaker system using very high quality vintage drivers including Western Electric.

The WE driver runs full-range and I use a capacitor to high-pass the tweeter. After experimentation, I found that a .56uf cap sounds best in this system. If I bump up that cap value by JUST ONE NOTCH (let's say .68uf), the system becomes out of balance and too bright!

If increasing a single value on a tweeter capacitor can have this much impact on a high end system, you can imagine what cables and other component changes can do to the BALANCE of a system.

Gerry
hepinstall
1 posts
 
I've been making interconnects and speaker wire from high quality Litz wire for some time. My customers have tried them against many very expensive commercial cables and so far my cables have always outperformed them for a tiny fraction of the cost.

Larry Hepinstall
Orge Systems
ronniet
4 posts
 
Off topic ever so slightly, but Paul Speltz declares "the 840C CD player has an artificially excitable high end zip" ?? In the many reviews of this player since its introduction, none has ever mentioned such a characteristic - In fact, most reviewers and owners alike remark on how neutral and and open upper ranges are reproduced - I wonder if Speltz has actually heard one of these himself, and if so, what associated equipment comprised the particular system? (Maybe one using his own cables?) Ron T.
ggeers222 OP
37 posts
 
Thanks all for your responses & inquiries - Of those who proposed building their own set to similar specs, I've gotten feedback since that their results are as positive as my own where sonic values are concerned. As mine have broken in even more, their virtues are as strong as ever. A little bit of labor goes a long way; there's no "magic" involved when using the same materials as the OEM - You just need to go ahead and give it a go; have some fun and save a bundle while you're at it. Cheers - Gary
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