where next to go?

Jason, here is how it works. The vast majority of DACs operate in sychronous mode on all inputs except for USB. This means the source/transport provides the masterclock, and makes sound quality highly sensitive to the quality of this clock.

There are some exceptions to this, in which the DAC buffers and reclocks ALL inputs (asynchronous DACs), most notably the PS audio perfectwave MKII in native X mode.

Since computers provide very crappy clocks, USB converters and most USB DACs are asynchronous, meaning the DAC / converter buffers and reclocks the signal.

What does this mean? Since you're only concerned with computer audio you can do two things:
1 - Get a USB converter that provides a very low jitter clock to your DLink III. You can spend between say $500 for a good (e.g. JKSPDIF Mk III ($460), to $3500 (offramp 5 + Turboclock + power supply) for a SOTA USB converter, or any amount in between (Audiophilleo 2 with Pure Power ($999), Wavelength Audio WaveLink ($900), Offramp 5 base model ($1200))

2 - Alternatively, you can get a very good USB DAC, which really is the asynchronous USB converter and DAC in one box. I listed a few options in my previous post, but these DAC run between say $1,500 for the Wyred4Sound to $4000 for the PS audio Perfectwave and Empirical Audio overdrive. The Ayre is somewhere in between.

Again, in my estimation the USB dac route is more cost effective has fewer boxes, and I suspect will give you better results than keeping the DLink III.

You can easily rotate a few USB converters through your system, since most manufacturers offer 30 day trial. If this solves your problem for $1000 or less, you could keep the Dlink III. If not, move up the food chain with a better USB DAC (some of which probably can also be had on 30 day trial).

"Steve, I thought DAC's suppose to clean out jitter or re-clocks them?"

This is only a relatively recent development. In the past, most DACs did no reclocking whatsoever. Like Edorr said, only a handful try to do this right now. Most use asynchronous hardware resampling to accomplish this, which generally results in sonic coloration and jitter from the clock they choose. None of them actually accomplish the goal of making the DAC jitter immune IME. I have modded a LOT of DACs in the past.

"There are some exceptions to this, in which the DAC buffers and reclocks ALL inputs (asynchronous DACs), most notably the PS audio perfectwave MKII in native X mode."

Pretty good, but several customers are still using Off-Ramp 5 to drive PWD even in NativeX mode. The dCS is probably the best at minimizing input jitter effects.

Steve N.
Empirical Audio

thanks for the info.

of the bunch of USB listed which is more 'analog' & musical sounding?

Are you using the stock Sonos or the Wyred 4 Sound modded Sonos unit?

Ok, so while I don't have "better" components to A-B at home, I do have "different" components. After comparing my old HRT Musicstreamer II and a Sony blue ray player feeding SACD to the DLink III, I'm in agreement that its the Vlink at fault.. these other options aren't as good overall but they have none of the wrongness on human voice. So looks like a JKSPDIF or Audiophilleo 2 purchase is on the horizon. Thanks for everyones input... it was tempting to buy a newer DAC like the Metrum Octave first.