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OK - now total confusion has set in

Thanks to the many (and varied) responses to my request for rack advice - (and reading the other numerous threads on the subject) - I have become a 'mush mellon' if you will - Totally Confused!

If I get this correct....certain components require hard,solid shelves ranging from butcher block to granite and marble - others require lighter materials such as birch plywood or Nueance shelves. Some shelves require spikes point up, some spikes point down, others various forms of rubber, plastic, foam, air filled, oil filled - whatever - feet.

Just when I thought I might have a grip on the situation - and decided to have a rack made of Cherry (a very open design with no side or back pannels just Cherry styles and rails - as they are called in the furniture/cabinet business) and marble shelves 'all' supported by AudioPrism
IsoBearings Isolation Globes - I think I am making a huge mistake that will make my new babys sound 'dead'.

At this point - cinder blocks and a 2X6 is looking promising! ;)

Any comments gentlemen and ladies?

Erik
ndmaitre
pbb
1,140 posts
 
Unless you own a good old analogue turntable, I firmly believe this notion that other components require coupling or decoupling to achieve their greatest potential is a bit of a stretch, to be kind. Obviously turntables are prone to acoustic feedback. The ones with a rather compliant suspension do better, in my humble opinion, on a very sturdy, read massive, base. Insofar as electronics benefitting from cones and the like, my opinion is that if these tweaks can be achieved without expending real money, why not. I think they are more often than not in the nature of chicken soup. Buy the rack or furniture that fits your room and budget and spend your money on recordings, is the best advice I can give you. I am certain many participants in this discussion will hold opposite views and tell you why everything affects the sound. Listener discretion is advised.
sean
6,231 posts
 
I agree to a certain extent with Pbb. However, i would not have believed that a rack could have such a large sonic effect on a system if i had not experienced it myself.

As i've mentioned before, i think that there are different situations for trying to set up systems on suspended floors or solid floors. If you don't take this into account, you may end up playing games for a LONG time. Sean
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redkiwi
1,092 posts
 
You have my sympathy Ndmaitre. It is indeed a shame that no conventional wisdom has emerged in this area - and the territory is littered with devices that merely change the sound, with claims of magical improvement. Looks like you will need to do your own experiments to prove which opinions are the more accurate.

I do not agree with either of the previous posts. The influences of vibration are some of the most profound as they create resonant peaks, or smear, and induce a persistent coloration that drives you crazy. This is one of the reasons many play endlessly with cones, footers etc because any change to the coloration is a blessed relief.

With fairly resonant shelves (eg. glass, acrylic, some timbers), Sean's observation is sound. For example, the metal rack should be sand-filled on a concrete floor, but not filled at all on a suspended floor.

But my preferred shelf, which is light, rigid and damped works best on an unfilled shelf, whether the floor is suspended or solid.
ndmaitre OP
7 posts
 
I understand mostly all of what has been said. I guess my fear here is making a rather large and expensive mistake. From what I described above - do any of you see any glaring bombs which I should change prior to construction - Cherry wood for rails/styles, marble for floating shelves, isolation by AudioPrism Globes ???

Just for reference - I don't know if my floor is solid or floating. The listening room is on the second floor of a large victorian built in 1850 so... yeah the floor is not on the ground but it sure feels solid! ;)

Erik
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