3-Way Crossover's and Amp selection?

It would be best to use other B+K amps to keep the sonic and imaging characters in tact.Depth and ambience cues are portrayed differently,depending on design.I assume that you will then remove the internal crossovers?

Boy, the amps in your list sure do cover the full range in terms of pricing on the used market. From Monarchy's that can be had for a very reasonable price up to Krell's and Atma's, you've got quite a selection there. Whatever you choose, you have to remember that the amps should be gain matched or you have to find some way to vary the drive level to them. Many active crossovers have this feature but some don't. As such, you'll need to do one or the other if you want this to work out at all.

If you like your B&K amp, then stick with the older B&K series and go from there. These are all VERY simple circuits with a minimal parts count. This means a short signal path, which in most cases, is a good thing. As such, they are good candidates for upgrading via modifications as there isn't a lot of actual parts to change and most everything is easy to get to.

As a case in point, my brother is using an ST-140 to power his tweeters, an ST-202+ to power his mids, a 442 to power his woofers and another 442 to power the subs. All of the amps have been pretty heavily modified and he's quite happy with the performance. There's no reason that you couldn't be happy with a similar three way set-up if you are already happy with the performance of your modified ST-202 now. Sean
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I'm not gonna make any recommendations, but I will say that tube amps will not necessarily 'cut off' your HF extension, or even your LF extension in many cases. Depends entirely on the amps in question, but there are lots of great tube amps which are known for their top octaves as well as their midrange. Remember, the division of the audioband into three 'ranges' is entirely arbitrary and without basis in physics, and any great amp must really be capable of covering the complete spectrum, or very close to it, with naturalness and cohesion from top to bottom. A design, whether tube or SS, which can only do great bass or great midrange, cannot really be considered a great amplifier, and I wouldn't use tri-amping with an outboard crossover as a bandaid to try and get around this. Your speakers and system will probably only sound their best if there is some kind of sonic consistency maintained across the spectrum, and running very different amps in the range above the low bass likely won't get you there.