Speaker Polish? REVISITED

I used a cheap marker pen for furniture nicks on the rosewood finish on my Genesis 500's. I used the medium color, which is about the same as a red cherry. The natural cherry would take the lightest color. The marker pens came in a set of three, from light to dark. It really worked! By the way, the culprit scratcher in my case turned out to be a visiting cat! We found him later in the visit perched right on top of the speaker. it was his claws that had gouged the top side of the speaker on his way up. Damn cat!!!

It might be easier to find tung oil than tongue oil.

Someone on the previous speaker polish thread was using Murphy's oil soap. DO NOT use this. A friend is in the hardwood floor refinishing business and he says this product is what provides him with his living. If it is caustic enough to take the finish off hardwood flooring over time. I'd hate to think what it does to speaker cabinets. Murphy's used to be one of my favorite cleaning products. :(

I've tried orange oil and didn't care for it. Very very oily and shiney initally, but it dries up quickly and unevenly then dulls out. Maybe it was just the brand I used.

While it might not be as good for the wood I thought Pledge had a more natural and consistent finish. I've never used Tung Oil on my speakers but love it's effect on wall cabinets I've built.

Incidentally, I don't use anything on my current monitors. I just cover them with dark pillow cases when not in use.

Dave, although someone said in the earlier thread that Scott's was recommended by B&W, and I seem to recall that Harbeth's md also said he uses it (I will get confirmation of that), it actually says at scottsliquidgold.com that the product is NOT recommended for cherrywood, wood that has deteriorated, or veneer! I'm back to worrying about my veneer. (Thanks Tom, btw, for your advice re old speakers.)

If you want to buy the Scott's product, it is sold at big supermarkets, small hardware stores, discount stores and online at their website. I bought some Guardsman furniture polish the other day that I think I like better now.

Paul

I have been an amateur furniture and cabinet maker for over 30 years and have done some custom work for clients occasionally.
The recommendations to use wax touch up sticks and felt marking pens is very good advice. It is cheap, effective and most importantly, you can remove the product if it does not blend in correctly. With the permanent markers be sure to try them in an inconspicuous place first. Test it for color matching and then quickly wipe it off off see if it leave a permanent stain. If it does, then wipe it off with mineral spirits and a rag or paper towel.

Tung oil is not really a polish. It is a wood finishing product similiar to varnish. In fact marine spar varnish gets its durability and weather proof ability because it contains more tung oil in the formula. You would use tung oil products to finish a piece of furniture after final sanding and staining. Usually applying two or more coats and lightly sanding (600 grit) between coats.

I have applied tung oil (Formby semi-gloss tung oil varnish works well)over existing finishes with good results. Just be sure to test it in a hidden spot first. The more coats of semi-gloss you apply the glossier the finish will become.

I have tried many different furniture polishes and quite frankly the best I have found is common old Pledge. Quite a few excellent cabinet makers around the country use this as a final touch up on very expensive custom made products.

Go slow, take care and good luck.