Hadcock arms


Simple question: What's the difference between the 228 & 242?

Joe
jphii
>>You need to use fluid damping for the Deccas and MCs<<

Perhaps for the older models but not the latest versions.
Some of the information in this thread is incorrect. All Hadcock 228's and 242's use the 4-ball bearing; none are traditional unstabilized unipivots. In the earlier 228's, the arm tubes were aluminum, and the headshell angle was slightly incorrect. The 242's had steel arm tubes, slightly longer. At one point, a heavier-duty bearing structure became available in some models.

The current-manufacture 228's and 242's all use an upgraded 4-ball bearing structure and steel arm tube, and the headshell angle is correct. The only difference between the various Hadcock models now is the arm length and the quality of the wiring. I own and use a 242 Integra.

Having been surprised at the mass of my 242, I installed a Denon 103 just to see what would happen. It sounded *fabulous*!

Although the Hadcock is a pain to set up (especially after my JMW 10), it seems to be unusually versatile. I never would have guessed that the same tonearm could work with my high-compliance Music Maker 3 and a low-compliance unit like the 103!

The operating principle seems weird to me, but I can't argue with how it sounds.
I´ve just installed a 242 w/ incognito wire from Audiofeil, and it works fine with my spacedeck.
Installation is a matter of patience. It took me about 4 hours to read the manual and do the job. If I could do it, anybody can.
The current cartridge is a Music maker III.
The hadcock and music maker fit like hand in glove, and the combo sounds better than my former RB600 plus Michel counterweight and Incognito wire, with Sumiko Blackbird, Clearaudio Virtuoso wood or Denon 103R.