How much does rock-solid speed stability cost?


I've been shopping for a new turntable and have found out I am very sensitive to speed variations. I listened to several belt driven tables and couldn't find one I could tolerate (Man, the P3 was bad). I thought the Nottingham Spacedeck was going to work, but after a second listen, it started to bug me also. So I had a bright idea - why don't I get an SL1200 from Crutchfield. It's supposed to be very stable. If I don't like it I can return it.

Well, crap! It's just as bad as the others. Average speed is fine, but it's sharp, then flat, then sharp ... Anything with a pure tone like piano, french horn, or flugelhorn has audible flutter. I have a hard time finding ANY recording that doesn't do this.

I guess almost 20 years of listening to nothing but CDs has ruined me. My big question to y'all is...Is this just the way analog is, and it's probably not for me? Or, can spending more money fix the problem? I only have about 200 records, most collected from mid '70s through early '80s. I really can't justify spending more than $2000 on a turntable and arm. I haven't heard the VPI Scout or the Basis 1400. Will they do the trick, or does it cost a lot more to get the level of performance I need?
nighthawk
I think you need to look at something with a non-cogging DC motor system. And also with a "non-hunting" speed controller.

As you have noticed, the ear is much more sensitve to flutter variations, than to the much slower wow variations. AC synchronous motors have a cogging effect that causes this flutter, and it can be noticeable. A properly made DC motor can be non-cogging and relieve this problem. However, these can suffer from problems too, depending upon how the speed regulation is accomplished. But generally, they have variations primarily in the wow area. And they can be made to have very low wow variations. This combination of low variations, combined with the confining of the variations into a less-sensitive type of variation(wow) , can lead to better sounding speed stability.

No motor system is perfect on a turntable. There are drag forces which tend to slow the platter in regular and irregular ways. When the motor system attempts to correct for these slowdowns, it must speed things up slightly. It is the method employed for driving the platter, AND the speed control system that affect things. Rapid corrections lead to flutter, slow corrections lead to wow. Cogging motors lead to flutter, no matter what the speed control consists of.

Heavy platters can also do some good in keeping speed regular, by inertia. Normally these are found in the higher priced turntables, although there are some heavy platter models in your price range.

3 turntables in your price range, that I am aware of, use non-cogging DC motor systems. They are Teres, Michell, and Origin Live.

The Teres Model 135 is unsuspended and string-driven, which leads to less speed interaction between the platter and belt. It also has a pretty heavy 15 pound platter. It has a closed-loop optical feedback system that constantly monitors platter speed via a optical strobe sensor on the platter, and keeps the controller aware of the actual real-time speed conditions of the platter and not just the motor. The controller is programmed to respond very quickly, but apply speed change very slowly. This eliminates the "speed hunting" which can lead to flutter from the controller. Alot of design went into the Teres motor system, and since it is a modular design, it can be purchased separately, and applied to other turntables with good effect. I am aware of improvements in speed control being made to VPI, Basis, Verdier, and others, by replacing the motor and control systems with Teres units.

The Origin Live Aurora turntables use a lighter platter and a suspension. They rely more on the motor for speed control than platter inertia. Speed is regulated and monitored at the motor, and not the platter itself. However, their DC motor and control system is fairly highly regarded, and is available separately also. It has been applied to Rega, and Linn Sondek turntables with good success to improve their speed control and sound quality. They have a couple of DC motor and controller kits on their website. Also their turntables can be seen there.

The Michell Gyrodec has only recently changed to a DC motor system. It apparently also uses a speed controller that senses speed at the motor, not the platter. Reports are that this system is an improvement over the previous AC motor system they used. Their platter is lighter than the Teres, but heavier than the Origin Live.

Oh, and there are a couple of other less-known units out there that use DC motor systems to good effect, such as Redpoint, Progressive Engineering, Bogdan, Pink Triangle. Most of these are not in your price range, except Pink Triangle Tarantella.

In the higher end tables, there can be some mitigating design criteria which will allow AC motors to sound more acceptable. However, I am still of the opinion that a well-designed DC motor is inherently better for this application.
If you have such sensitive ears you might need to spend a lot of money for something like a VPI with flywheel (around $6K). The upper end Technics are really good but their power supplies are not very stable and Technics stopped making the replacement chipsets. KAB electroacoustics makes a beefy outboard power supply for the 1200 which I intend to get in the next few months:

SL-1200 power supply

There is the possibility that you have a lot of electrical noise and (perhaps) voltage fluctuations in your listening room. Even a quartz lock mechanism has to fight the noise background in order to regulate speed and is taxing on the system's performance. There was a really good discussion on the subject of TT power supplies and their effect on the music:

Turntable Power Source Benefits

I think that in your budget range the Technics 1200 w/ the outboard power supply is as good as it gets. Otherwise get ready to spend a lot more (perhaps a Teres will please you). I recently listened to a friend's system that has an Oracle fed by a Hewlett Packard laboratory grade power supply and although good, clean and musical sounding, it did not have the pace and the steadiness of my modded 1200.
My guess is that an LP12 with the Origin Live DC motor control would fit the bill. A Linn that is set up correctly is difficult to beat for the dollars invested and the Origin Live is purported to be more accurate than the Linn Lingo power supply. Audiophiles love to hate them which works in your favor to drive the price down. You can afford a used LP12/Origin Live DC/Ittok/Shelter 501 and, set up correctly on the right stand, you'll be happy for years.