Isolation for turntables

Thanks for the inputs all. My setup just doesn't allow for a dedicated 'table stand, whether it be floor or wall mounted, just not enough room. Underneath the listening room, in the basement, is an unfinished furnace room. Based on these inputs, I'm thinking of crossbracing the floor joists, and putting in a telescopic steel column directly under the gear. As much as pouring a concrete pillar intrigues me, that may be going a little too far, people think I'm insane as it is when it comes to audio. I agree with Caterham, the 'table should be immune to pretty much anything, I'm fortunate in that I live less than 90 minutes from Oracle, Mr. Riendeau tweaked my Alexandria for me a while back, I think it's time for the Delphi to go in for a tune up. Any isolation base products I should consider as well? I'm using Bright Star bases under my pre and CDP, but doubt they'd be ideal for something as large and as heavy as a Delphi. Thanks again, Jeff

Okay.How about this?Your problem lies with the heavy cabinet, particularly as it is on the supended flooring.If you place 2 small wood blocks or feet at the bottom/rear of the cabinet and then rock it bacwards and attach it to the wall studs, you will have effectively turned it into a wall shelf and placed its mass onto the much more stable building structure rather than the springy flooring. Your next step would be to try a low mass tabletop isolation platform like the Target VF1, RATA(Russ Andrews) Torlyte, Cetech composite or one of the less expensive Symposium platforms(I don't much care for the ultra).These units are amoungst the most stable and musical means of decoupling and PROTECTING your deck from the energy storing, information smearing mass of the cabinet and probably the least intrusive and convenient.The Brightstars would be musical death to your Delphi, IMO. Best, Ken GreaterRanges/Neuance www.neuanceaudio.com/

A thing that works for us(Wifes idea) is to go to the local Hdwe store get some canister corks and place them under the feet. May work, may not, no great investment in time or money

get the thing set properly...my mkII will also take a WWF triple header and not flinch! i suggest you do it yourself or watch the set up so that you can do it in the future. assuming the table is currently set reasonably well all you need is the oracle paper jig to measure the tower distance from the acrylic base and spin the springs for best bounce uniformity. mine gets a tune up every 1 to 2 years and rarely needs anything but a precautionary oil change.

if you still aren't satisfied sell it to me Jeff