CD Tweeks...Improve Ripped SQ?


Hi All,

I'm seriously considering coming over to the geek side of music playback. :-}

All of my shinny polycarbonate and aluminum platters have had CD treatment done to them.

The process I use is:
1) Optrix Cleaner
2) Audio Desk CD Lathe with black edge marker
3) Nespa Pro 30sec treatment
4) Acoustic Revive RD-3 Demagnetize

So the big question is...

Does a treated ripped CD sound better than an untreated ripped CD?

Anyone A/B a standard CD to a treated CD after ripped to a hard drive?

Thanks,
128x128rodge827
"Wow, de-magnetizing a non-magnetic metal. How, exactly, does that work?"
08-08-13: Rlwainwright

Yes, aluminum can have impurities in it.

The ink in the label more likely especially dark colors like black, red, and brown.

Here are a couple of Links on the subject.

http://www.iar-80.com/page53.html

http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/furutech/rd1.html
.
Jea 48

I'm disc manufacturer and I'm holding several patent in the disc industry
molding process today is very accurate we talk micron and nanometre,in replication line we have scanners checking every disc,eccentricity is checked on the stamper during the punching and after with very accurate tester.
during the metallization process we spread the aluminum particles to have homogeneous layer in nanometers thickness .
demagnetizing , aluminium impurities, labeling color and blabla is BS!
Forget about trying to make commercial CDs sound good.

Get yourself a Plextor USB CDROM writer and a bunch of Mitsui Gold Audio Master disks and write your own.

Use dbpoweramp with Accurate Rip enabled to rip files in .wav format to your PC hard disk.

Then clean the blank Mitsui disk with a good cleaner (there are a lot better than Optrix BTW).

Then write the new disk using dbpoweramp at 1X speed.

Steve N.
Empirical Audio
I've ripped to .wav from various CD drives on various laptops over the last 3-4 years or so using basic Windows Media player (using highest sound quality setting to minimize any errors) and have not had any issues.

If teh CD looks dirty, as used CDs often are, I spray it with a very dilute natural cleaner solution first and wipe them clean. This is to make the rip go faster in that it will take longer to rip the CD if disc is dirty and rereads are needed.

On rare occasion, mostly with cheaper older CD-Rs I might rip that have been around awhile and not in good condition, I will get a minor dropout during play or other minor glitch. But with commercial CDs, the rip either completes normally fine eventually or if the disc is visibly scratched or defective usually, it may continue to reread indefinitely during the rip and eventually I might just have to give up and chalk that one up to a damaged or defective disc. VEry very rare though. I've ripped thousands of CDs and had issues on less than a half dozen or so I would say.

I'd have to agree that CD treatments for ripping in particular are mostly BS as well.
Ionizers, demagnetizers, coloring the disc, coloring the tray, leveling the transport, isolating the transport, CD Enhancer fluids, all of these things improve ripping.