Cartridge Break-In


Installed new cartridge and was just wondering about break-in techniques. Manufacturer recommends 50 hrs of playing time to presumably work in the suspension components. Obviously, playing a record would work best, but would simply placing the tonearm/cartridge on a non-spinning record and leaving it there also contribute to break-in? I'm thinking it really wouldn't be as effective since the suspension has only been displaced, but is not kept in motion the way playing a record would cause. Here's where it get strange, suppose I placed my turntable (a non-suspension design) on top of my subwoofer and played some bass oriented music thru my CD player? I could play with the volume level to control the amount of acoustic transfer from the sub to the turntable/arm/cartridge and thereby "excite" the cartridge into some sort of, hopefully controlled, motion. Alternatively, I could place the turntable directly in front of my woofers and play music at a high volume from a digital source. Would any of these "techniques" even roughly accomplish what playing a record does as far as cartridge break-in goes?

Just speculating on a hypothesis.
128x128onhwy61
Onhwy -- it's not a hard and fast specification by any means, however it's based on (and borne out by) a few (unforunately very few!) cartridge makers who DO specify optimum load values for their cartridges. And also the concensus of a lot of audiophiles who report their results. I have compiled these anecdotal reports, and it's amazing how consistently the results work out to the 25x (the resistance of the cartridge in question.)

As for science, it's pretty simple, though again, not hard and fast, because of so many other variables like cable length and composition, phonostage design etc. However if you take an average gain of 50dB (most MC phono stages are between 40 dB and 60 dB I'd say) and an average output of 0.40 mV (most cartridges have outputs somewhere between .20 and .60 mV) you will come up with (again this is an average) an impedance matching differential that requires the driven impedance be (at least) 25x the impedance of the driver. Notice I said "at least". So why wouldn't say 47K ohms be even better since it's way above the "at least" minimum? That's a fair question. the answer has to do with the miniscule value of the driving voltage, as opposed for instance to the (usually) healthy voltage with which preamps drive amps. In the cases of both cartridge-to-phono preamp (always) and preamp-to-amp (sometimes, but often enough to cause problems), when the driving voltage falls to near the minimum input sensitivity of the driven device, it's important that the match be closer to the theoretical ideal (minimum) to insure flattest frequency response and best efficiency (input voltage to output voltage) for the driven device. If you need proof of that, think of the many discussions you've (probably) read where somebody is complaining that their magabuck preamp and their megabuck amp are producing thin, or glarey, or bass-shy sound and they can't figure out why. The problem lies not with the equipment, but with the combination. And why BTW, we have all these expensive ICs with network boxes (like MIT and Transparent) which allow better impedance matching (load adjustment) of preamp to amp. Personally, I don't think this would be necessary if the equipment were well matched to begin with. But I digress, sorry.

So this 25x factor is really a rule of thumb which is meant to get things to a point (ballpark) from which you can be pretty sure that an optimum value (obtained by listening) will be found within a range that's easy to work with, practically speaking. I usually recommend 50% +/_ This means for instance that if a cartridge had an internal resistance of say 30 ohms (sometimes spec'd. as "output impedance") and therefore (IMO) a theoretical ideal load of 750 ohms, that you would probably find your best sonics somewhere between 375 ohms and 1125 ohms. If you were to start out at 750, and depending on what you hear, it's not hard to tell if you should go up a little or down a little (and after you do, you may decide to stick with 750 ;~)) What you WILL avoid however, is sitting there for two weeks with a huge bag of resistors (and a soldering iron, if the person who designed your phono preamp thought you should only have to do this once!!) until you zero in on the optimum load for your setup.

I can say one thing for sure about any MC cartridge (not HO of course) without fear of being made to eat my phono cables: It's never going to be 47K, and it's never going to be equal to the internal resistance of the cartridge (like 6 to 30 ohms). I mention this because that's the range most @#^?*! cartridge manufacturers give you. Yeah, great! So where are you supposed to start?! Try 25x to start, it might not be absolute perfection, but it will save you a lot of time and aggravation getting there.
Nsgarch ,

Thank you for that explanation. (Nods head sagely, giving a plausible imitation of complete understanding.) Even your digressions were informative.

My limited experience with three MC gain stages and a half dozen MC's largely confirms your >= 25x guideline. In only one case did a lower value (about 19x) "seem" best, but even then the combination was not happy, probably due to tonearm/cartridge issues. That cartridge obeyed the 25x rule when used on a more compatible arm.

My present setup works best at about 56x (225 ohm input impedance/4 ohm cartridge). 25x is too low. The highest my MC inputs can go is 375x (1500 ohms) and that is clearly too high. The 47k of a MM input would be far too high, aside from the inadequate gain.

Obviously your guideline and explanation assume the cartridge is driving a voltage gain device. If a stepup transformer is the first thing in the circuit, the reflected impedance seen by the cartridge will need to be well below 25x.
Doug, you're quite right, none of this applies to stepup transformers. Just to confirm you findings (somewhat), if you take the 25x factor and apply the +/_ 50% range, it would come out 12.5x to 37.5x, which is another way of calculating the range. Add the extremes together and divide by 2 to get the mid-point.
Hi Doug, got the Zyx UNIverse and you are right. It sounds very impressing right out of the box. I "cheated" a little bit with the "burn in" time, I did use the AT 637 for some time, but I think, it will increase performance.
Anyway, I listened to quite a lot of Cartridges ( Benz, Koetsu up to 11.000 $, Clearaudio, Allaerts and a few others - most with a Klyne 7 Phono Stage - and I know, that taste is different, but this one will chase all these down the block and back again. It shows, what Benz, Koetsu's, Clearaudio etc. really are: Overhyped, overpriced and more or less average. And compared to others, this one is reliable, had one some years, never a problem.
Found out on another forum the correct loading for a Ruby 3 is 22K. Night and day-analog magic to be sure. I do wish Benz made this information available. I am not sure why reviewers found this cartridge so outstanding without the correct loading. 47K was horrendous in a system with extended high frequency response and 1K dull and muddy. It is one of the finest I have heard correctly loaded except no one would know that most running at 1 or 47K.