Designer in wall wiring - worth it?

I took a whole new approach to this problem. I bought a 600 V bus bar that’s 10 feet long from an industrial supply house. I hung it from the ceiling in my space and I got rid of all the connectors and I just bolt onto the bus bar right above where I need power. I think I ran a eight gauge back to the panel to feed the bus bar. It works great , Sometimes I think I hear it hum, But I think it’s all my imagination.

now I have all the power I need or will ever need!

I’d like someone to do this experiment: buy a 1.5M section of the various types of exotic in wall wire, put decent connectors on them, and compare in their system to gauge their overall quality and sound signature. Include 12ga cryo’ed and non-cryo’ed romex for completeness. Sell them as a package used, and I’ll be the first buyer. Then we’ll start a forum thread to compare so the same people can tell us that we’re crazy. :) We could even solicit opinions from prominent reviewers.

IME, every power cord sounds different and that difference seems to move with it and be consistent in quality no matter where it’s connected, just the quantity of change is different. My concern is that 50-70 feet of special wire will impose a noticeable sound signature so I'd look for EQ neutrality as the first criteria.  

I had 3 dedicated runs of 10ga non-cryo installed and loved the quiet, dynamics and very low bass, but have gone back to 12ga non-dedicated because it just sounds better in the treble and mids. Your short 12ga dedicated run sounds like a good start and since you have the PS Audio regen, that in wall wire should be less important. I wanted Hidden Treasure but didn’t realize it wasn’t NEC approved. That should be a deal breaker. Are any "exotic" in wall wires approved? David Weinhart said he had something that was better than cryo’ed romex but cheaper than Hidden Treasure. I wasn’t ready so I didn’t ask for details. I’m hoping that Synergistic Research will offer one someday.

@jea48 Wrote:

 Only the length of wiring from the secondary of the isolation power transformer feeding your audio equipment should be considered. Forget the miles and miles, (Maybe thousands of miles), of wire before the transformer that feeds your house,  as far as, AC noise in the wire is concerned. 

I agree! In my opinion, the service entrance cable from the utility pole to the house electrical service entrance panel should be copper (not aluminum), preferably buried underground if possible. 😎

Problem is, at least Mid-American Energy Power Company, supplier of electrical power in my area, will not install copper or hook up to it. Must be aluminum only, as spelled out in their residential section of their hand book.

Copper is a better conductor than aluminum. Copper’s available fault current will be higher than aluminum wire. Less Line impedance... Therein a fault current event is more likely to blow their utility power transformer up if copper was used. The power company would rather like the aluminum wire to burn free at a termination, breaking the fault circuit or give the High Line Fuse time to blow, killing their power transformer...

FYI, Fault current can be in the 10s of thousands of amps before the High Line fuse blows, or the low voltage secondary aluminum wire blows fee at a termination, breaking the fault circuit.

You can install copper from the load side of the meter socket to your main service equipment panel. Any where else in your home.

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Copper is a better conductor than aluminum. Copper’s available fault current will be higher than aluminum wire. Less Line impedance... Therein a fault current event is more likely to blow their utility power transformer up if copper was used. The power company would rather like the aluminum wire to burn free at a termination, breaking the fault circuit or give the High Line Fuse time to blow, killing their power transformer...

@jea48 and I thought they just did that these days because aluminum is cheaper than copper. Thanks for the explanation.