Battery Power at a Price Point


I’ve always believed that the best power is what comes directly out of the wall. For me, AC line conditioners have always sucked the life out of the music. I’ve tried a few conditioners but need to confess never tried anything in the thousand dollar and up category. My power consisted of dedicated 20amp circuits for each amplifier and a dedicated circuit for my digital front end. I remember the first listen to clean power when I added those dedicated circuits. The results were breathtaking to me. The old cliche of a quieter background, bigger soundstage, extended highs and deeper bass is how I’d describe what delivering cleaner power did for my system. I’m guessing to summarize what I did hear was simply a lower floor noise in my system. A lower floor noise just made everything sound better.

A 12v-48v lithium LiFePO4 battery and a “pure sine wave” inverter are very cost effective compared to what we spend on a piece of hardware in this hobby. LiFePO4 batteries have dropped significantly in price over the last couple of years and with the acceptance of solar power and more Bommers traveling in RV’s, the inverter market has grown exponentially. The threads I could find on this topic mentions very positive results using a battery to power their systems. The information on-line is somewhat limited and offer little if any comparison between inverters as well as how much inverter and battery does one needs to run their front end and amplifier(s).

I’m sure some of you think that by adding an inverter will add noise back into the system and you are correct. The only thing I can attest is that my system sounds cleaner and more articulate with the inverter and battery power compared to dedicated circuits off the grid.

It has been mentioned that to truly take advantages of what an off grid system can offer, your system needs to be somewhat resolving. My system consists of Harbeth loudspeakers driven by Quicksilver mono blocks. To complement the bottom end is a RSL subwoofer. My modest front end is comprised of a Topping linestage and DAC. 

My auxiliary components like FMC’s, network switch and renderer are all powered by aftermarket linear or SMPS with the exception of my M4 MacMini which is used as a streamer. I have a small fiber bridge located between switch and DAC. All music files are being processed with HQPlayer and JPlay to manage my music. All music files are streamed from Qobuz. 

Prior to investing in off-grid power, I discovered an on-line tread that I’ll link here describing how by simply powering a music system by a battery power station can transform things by getting your system clean power. These all-in-one power stations can be purchased through Amazon and they range from a few hundred bucks to a few thousand all depending on how much power one needs. 

By eliminating the power station’s fancy housing, power ports and interfaces and by putting together selected components, one can save a ton of money and get a better result. You’d pick and choose the inverter you want as well as battery capacity. Once you figure your components out, it will take you just minutes to connect everything up.

I decided to go the a la carte route. My initial thought was to get more inverter than what I actually need. More is always better mentality since if one has extra power, it’s good to have headroom in reserves. I quickly realized the drawback to overkill in this regard. A larger inverter consumes more power than a smaller one. Larger inverters need larger gauge cables and a bigger battery. Most inverters range from 200 watts to 5000 watts and above. Also make sure you use a “pure sine wave” and not a “modified sine wave inverter”. Pure sine wave inverters are designed for sensitive electronics where modified sine wave inverters are manufactured with a price point in mind and are normally used with things like power tools.

I decided to initially just to power my DAC and preamp off battery power. The reasoning was both financial and because my front end is physically separated from my amps and I wanted to take things slow at first. It would be easy to add a second off grid system for my amps at a later date. In fact it may be better having separate battery based systems to keep the digital separated from my amps. 

I needed to figure how much inverter I actually needed. My DAC and linestage consumed a whopping 2 watts at idle and 16 watts at full consumption. I made the decision to try a 250 watt inverter by Victron and a 600 watt inverter by Giandel, for both companies, their smallest offerings. The price for each inverter was $98 and $86 dollars respectively. Inverters come in two flavors, low and high frequency. The Victron was low and Giandel high. I wanted to compare both versions to see what sounded best to me. Just a quick note on Giandel and Victron. As mentioned earlier, the cost of these inverters are relatively inexpensive. I wanted to try the very best that I could find and the Giandel and Victron are two brands that always came out on top when educating myself with these devices.

Most inverters come in 12, 24, 36, and 48 volt variants. If I were going to power my amps, I would have opted for a 48 volt model. As you go up in power requirements, a 48 volt inverter makes sense as they are built and run more efficiently, requiring smaller cabling and run cooler. For smaller wattage requirements, 12 volts systems make sense due to cost consideration. 

After listening and comparing both low and high frequency inverters for just a few minutes, it was clear to me which variant I preferred. I did force myself to listen to both inverters for the better part of the day but things didn’t change and it was easy for me to pick a winner after playing just a couple tracks. Although the Giandel sounded better than my 20amp dedicated line from the grid, I preferred the sound of the Victron. The music when playing through the Victron just had more weight and body to it and it sounded a tad smoother. The Giandel did sound very good and for some it may sound better than the Victron in their system. The negative regarding the Victron is that the model I chose only has a single receptacle so I need to add one. The Giandel came with two. I ended up putting a couple JPS Labs receptacles in a metal box and attached it with an aftermarket power cord. I will note that I do have a ground to earth connection as back when I installed my dedicated circuits I installed a grounding rod. 

These inverters do have fans that should come on if the unit is working close to its limitations. In the time that I’ve been using them, I’ve never heard the fan engage. Some have mentioned that because Victron’s have a larger large internal transformer, they can hum. So far, my inverter has been dead quiet.

Up to this point, I’ve been using a 60ah lithium battery that I hijacked from my boat’s sonar. I wanted to try battery power before any real investment. I do have on order a 12v 100ah battery with Bluetooth monitoring from LiTime. I wanted a battery with Bluetooth monitoring so that I can monitor my battery level. From what I’ve researched, LiTime is a reputable company that makes good quality products. Batteries can be found for less but you want something that is manufactured at a higher standard. YouTube videos comparing various battery manufacturers were eye opening as some of the lesser known brands have less than satisfactory build quality standards in my opinion. Keep in mind that lithium batteries can be a fire hazard. 

A separate battery charger compatible with lithium batteries is needed to charge the battery once depleted. I’m using a Noco Genius 10A charger because I already owned one and I believe Noco makes some of the better battery chargers on the market. You can find more cost effective solutions. I disconnect the battery from the inverter when I charge the battery using a batter disconnect. Charging is done overnight as it takes roughly 6 to 8 hours to fully charge my 60ah battery.  

I can currently listen to music four to five hours a day and I can go days in between charges.

The benefits of off grid power for me is significant.

If I ever decide to power my Quicksilver Monos, I’d likely do a 48v 1200 watt system. I’m guessing the inverter, charger combined with battery would be in the $500- $700 price range. Most financial resources here are due to the cost of a 48v battery.

My Cost Breakdown to power my DAC and Line Stage:

Victron 12v/250 Inverter  $86

8awg wire; 6 feet plus ring connectors  $15

Li Time 100ah LiFePO4  $230

Noco Genius 10A charger  $100

Battery Disconnect  $15

All parts except 8 gauge wire purchase from Amazon. Wire from Home Depot. Putting things together is super easy with no prior electrical skills needed. The entire installation process should take less than 15 minutes. 

For those of you thinking about a dedicated circuit or for those where one is not feasible, this solution is a no brainer. It’s the best $446 dollars I’ve ever spend in this hobby. Give it a try. Improvements are not subtle!

islandflyfisher2

Notice, Warning regarding sine waves: An electrical engineer friend whom I am discussing the battery setup suspected the Walmart Ever Start Inverter did not put out a sine wave. I checked, and he is correct; it puts out a "modified" sine wave. It appears these are more stepped, and according to what I found online, it can cause humming or buzzing in electronics, especially with music. A Wiki/Google search indicated that it can even cause some electronics to overheat. 

OK, so I'm not going to publicly endorse/recommend a stepped wave, "modified" sine wave, inverter. For anyone who is concerned about the safety of their gear, they will definitely want to seek a sine wave inverter. Perhaps this was the concern behind islandflyfisher2's comment about wanting a sine wave inverter? 

It should be understood by all that such activities are "do at your own risk", and outside the typical warranty coverage of components. You assume your own risk when you assemble and use such off grid solutions. 

Consequently, even though I mention it above, I am not going to recommend the Ever Start Inverters or stepped (modified sine wave) inverters. I do not want a risk of someone using such a modified inverter and frying a sensitive piece of electronics. So, stick with the sine wave inverters, please. 

Meanwhile, though I am not recommending it, the Ever Start seems to show zero issues. No noise, no heating up of components. There is one anomaly, however. The TEAC VRDS-701 has a relay that turns on when it is plugged into the wall, before the power switch is turned on. Every time I turn off the inverter because I do not want to run it while it is unused, the VRDS-701's relay turns off. Then, when the inverter is turned on again, the relay for the VRDS-701 clicks on again. Ideally, I would not want this relay turning on and off every session. It would be a bummer if it only had a certain amount of life cycle and burned out. 

Question: Does anyone leave the inverter turned on when not using it? I presume everyone turns them off. I don't see any sense in leaving it turned on, except if it is working a relay in a component every time it cycles. 

I still have the Victron sine wave inverter ordered and should be here soon. If that proves to sound better, I will return the Ever Start and move to an all Victron (or equivalent sine wave) inverter setup. I may do that anyway, for long term peace of mind. 

 

As mentioned in the original post, only use a “pure sine wave”, not a “modified sine wave inverter”. Modified sine wave inverters should NOT be used with electronics and are built at a price point to power things like power tools, fans, lights and simple appliances like mixers and toasters. PURE sine wave inverters are designed to be used with sensitive electronics like televisions and HiFi gear. 

Leaving the inverter on 24/7 will not harm the inverter but will eventually run down the battery. I’m guessing one could do this but you’d have to charge the battery when not listening. Perhaps there could be a difference in sound when the inverter is cold but I have not detected any when I initially turn things on. My tube amps have a short warm up time before things settle in so perhaps there is a sonic shift when first powering on the inverter but I haven’t detected any. 

If turning the inverter off and on is an inconvenience because of location, the Victron has an included option to add a remote switch fairly easily. It’s very cost effective if that is needed by someone.

I leave my inverter on all the time. If I turn it off for any length of time, it seems to take a few hours or more to sound good. My preamp has a stby mode so I'm assuming it is keeping all the caps fully charged in stby.  I monitor the battery voltage and if it drops too low I charge back up. If your using Lifepo4 batteries it does not hurt the battery to fully discharge. Just don't keep it at a discharged state for days or more.

islandflyfisher2, yes, you did specify "pure sine wave", and I thank you! I presumed that ones sold at Walmart or similar would use a pure sine wave. As I looked into it more, following the comment from the electrical engineer, I started to realize the preponderance of "modified" sine wave units. Sure enough, the Ever Start brand is modified sine wave. It seems to work ok with my system, but I'm still not going to endorse it. I presume the Victron may sound better, and as I said above, I will probably switch the entire system over to true sine wave inverters to improve safety to the gear. 

Before I purchased it, as I studied the Walmart website and the Ever Start 1500 Inverter, I recall reading this in the description,  "Power multiple electronics including everything from smartphones and laptop computers to electronic devices and more," which made me think that HiFi electronic devices were safe to use with it. In fact, nothing that I am aware detrimental has happened to my HiFi. 

What I have learned from this is that even if an inverter's description says it's ok for "electronic devices", that is an open-ended phrase and it doesn't  necessarily mean it's suitable for HiFi. If the Ever Start inverter is meant only for less sensitive electronics, I feel the above sentence was misleading. I am glad there is clarification happening here. I certainly do not wish to give misleading information to the community! 

 

With the Ecoflow, it's seamless going between AC and battery. I just unplug the charger while listening and plug it back in when I finish. My components don't notice at all. I'm assuming the inverter switches on instantly. 10ms is the spec time. 

It also has an App that shows current status and allows remote control. 

I don't think the Furman is inhibiting anything. It's not a typical filter or surge protector. Furman has unique circuitry that accomplishes it differently than most.