Designer in wall wiring - worth it?

Miles and miles of wire. 

The electrons, electric charge, that travel from the Power Plant Generators are not the same electrons, electric charge, that powers your stereo system equipment. The electrical energy the generator produces does though. 

The electrons, electric charge, that travel in the electrical wires from the generators in the Power plant leave the generator go through the primary windings of a step-up isolation power transformer and return to the generator.

The electrons, electric charge, do not jump across the air gap from the primary to the secondary. The electromagnet fields energy does though.

Good chance there are many isolation power transformers, step-up and step-down, the AC voltage before the electrical power energy reaches the step-down voltage isolation power transformer that feeds the electrical power energy to your home. Same process as above is repeated over and over. (Electrons, electric charge, do not jump across the air gap.)

 Only the length of wiring from the secondary of the isolation power transformer feeding your audio equipment should be considered. Forget the miles and miles, (Maybe thousands of miles), of wire before the transformer that feeds your house,  as far as, AC noise in the wire is concerned. 

FYI, the majority of noise on the branch circuit wiring in the home is created by equipment, appliances, LED lighting, lighting dimmers, and cheaply built switch mode power supplies used in the home. Also, poor electrical wiring connections can create a lot of noise on the AC wiring. Including the wire connection from the utility Power Transformer to the main electrical panel. Especially over head fed electrical services.

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As for using the Audience cable for branch circuit wiring, besides not meeting electrical safety codes, It’s stranded wire... I am a believer in solid core wire for branch circuit wiring to feed audio equipment. Check the archives...

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Hard to believe.

Installation
The cable measures 0.72" (18.3mm) in diameter, so I used a 13/16" Irwin Speedbor paddle bit to easily cut slightly oversized holes to feed the cable through the floor joists. (This bit should cost less than $5 and will quickly cut through floor joists.) With 10 gauge wire you are good for 30 Amperes so I installed a 30A breaker.

https://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/1122/Audience_Hidden_Treasure_InWall_AC_PowerCable_HD_Wall_Receptacle_Review.htm

The circuit breaker determines the ampere rating of the circuit. The breaker should have been a 20A breaker.  A 5-15R, 15A duplex receptacle, or a 5-20R, 20A receptacle can not be connected to a 30A breaker/circuit.

Note. (If a 15 amp duplex outlet is used a 15 amp breaker could be used. But a 20 amp receptacle cannot be connected to a 15 circuit. Two or more 15 amp receptacles can be connected to a 20 amp circuit. A 15A duplex is two. Why use a 15A breaker?)

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I used MSB's wiring guide to wire my system and I got a big improvement. I even had the 8AWG wiring, breaker, and outlets cryo-treated before install: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GqznorhPEsh3pEhy1s29NxMjlBojfiZ_wOjsmu_q5Vc/edit?tab=t.0#heading=h.1gtlekrsay9l

Whatever you think a power conditioner can or cannot do, I promise you it's better than magic in-wall Romex. 

FWIW, Actual professional lab testing has shown MC, (Metal Clad) cable is better for controlling EMI and RFI than Romex. (Romex doesn't do either that I know of.) MC cable also does a better job of controlling, preventing, an induced transfer of voltage from the two current carrying conductors, (Hot and Neutral), onto the safety equipment grounding conductor. This is accomplished by the way the MC cable is constructed. The Hot, Neutral, and Equipment grounding conductor are tightly twisted together in a spiral twist the entire length of the cable. The metal cladding firmly holds the three conductors in place. That’s next to impossible to do with Romex.   

IF Romex (NM Sheathed Cable) is used DO NOT deliberately add twists to the cable. Twisting the cable will change the Lay, design/construction, of the three conductors. Specifically the relationship of the equipment grounding conductor that is centered between the Hot and Neutral Conductor. (Two conductor with ground Romex)... 

Again the control of an induced voltage on the equipment grounding conductor from either of the two current carrying conductors. IF the equipment ground is kept centered in the middle of the Hot and neutral current carrying conductors the magnetic fields cancel one another out in the center of the two. The ground wire is said to be in the Null Zone, between the two current carrying conductors. 

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@jea48 IF Romex (NM Sheathed Cable) is used DO NOT deliberately add twists to the cable. Twisting the cable will change the Lay, design/construction, of the three conductors. Specifically the relationship of the equipment grounding conductor that is centered between the Hot and Neutral Conductor. (Two conductor with ground Romex)... 

Again the control of an induced voltage on the equipment grounding conductor from either of the two current carrying conductors. IF the equipment ground is kept centered in the middle of the Hot and neutral current carrying conductors the magnetic fields cancel one another out in the center of the two. The ground wire is said to be in the Null Zone, between the two current carrying conductors. 

A very good point. There are so many subtleties to proper house wiring that most DIY'ers are not aware of because they are not obvious and have been learned over decades of establishing standards. Some of these represent real risks.