Designer in wall wiring - worth it?

@zlone  "...it got me thinking it would not be crazy money to try the Audience in-wall shielded 10 gauge cable."

We don't know what kind of power amp(s) you are using, but 12AWG is usually fine, especially for short runs. In your living environment, chances are whatever noise exists in the mains is already present, being contributed by internal sources (e.g. LED dimmers).

There are two phases or "legs" that bring power to your breaker box. Best noise management requires multiple outlets to be wired to the same phase in the panel. If unsure, one will need to look at the panel buss internal layout to check.

As for a matching 20A outlet, the Leviton 16362 industrial grade series provides heavy 1mm brass triple-wipe contacts, interior aesthetics, and a UL rating for $20-25 USD.

Thanks for the comments. Point taken @pindac, the Audience wire is rated C3, which is technically, and probably code-wise, not a replacement for standard romex. 300v vs 600v. Just an idea at this point and was curious if anyone had tried it.

@ted_b Thanks for the comment. Both lines are on the same leg of my box, and I am using Furutech outlets, so I have those bases covered. I am using a PS Audio P15 to clean things up, so I am not too worried about noise. My amp is Audionet, and I have recently plugged it back into the P15 instead of the wall due to some ground potential imbalance between it and my preamp. That’s another story.

@zlone,

AC Power Wiring Types: ''Two conductor plus 1 ground MC (Metal Clad) is a good choice for Non-Isolated Ground A/V systems. MC cable contains a safety grounding conductor (wire). The three conductors in the MC cable (Line, Neutral and Ground) are uniformly twisted, reducing both induced voltages on the ground wire and radiated AC magnetic fields. The NEC article 250.118 (10)a prohibits the use of this cable for isolated ground circuits because the metal jacket is not considered a grounding conductor, and it is not rated for fault current.'' Also the safety grounding conductor (wire) is insulated. See here pages 11-13

Mike

While you’re at it, check with the power company and get them to replace the wiring from wherever it’s generated to your house. 

The belief that the last few feet of wiring or a power cord can make any obective difference, is laughable.